Friday, August 25, 2006

Book Review: Home - Chronicling the Lives of Middle Class Women of Delhi

[Picture and Review by Mayank Austen Soofi]

THE noteworthy matter of interest about Home is that it happens to be the first novel to have come out of Random House India. The binding is fine, the paper is tough and the cover picture is evocative. There is gold lace attached to a fine-looking built-in bookmark. The book, like every new book, smells of fresh wood shavings. Besides, Random House did good homework before pinning down on who ought to be the author of the first book of its newly launched Indian imprint.

Manju Kapur — the author of Home — has respectable credentials. She is a professor of English Literature in the up-market Miranda House — a prestigious college for girls in Delhi, one of whose famous alumni is internationally acclaimed film-maker Mira Nair - the director of the international art-house hit Monsoon Wedding. Also, Ms Kapur’s first novel Difficult Daughters, published when she was 50, was sufficiently well-written for its author to be awarded the Commonwealth Writers' Prize in 1998.

Home is her third novel and after an initial awkwardness in tone, it settles down to an engrossing, simple and quick read. This is the story of a large joint family of Delhi that has a flourishing business in the clothes trade. The household of Banwarilals have a fancy garments showroom — selling bridal clothes etc. — in the bazaar of Karol Bagh, Delhi’s chief shopping destination for middle-class Indians.

The novel starts with two sisters: one is attractive and the other merely plain-looking. The fairer Sona is married to the Banwarilal family while the unlucky Rupa is attached to a junior government officer of no consequence.


The Ladies of Delhi

In the first few pages the story traces the lives of these two sisters before it finally makes up its mind and shifts focus entirely to the goings-on in the Banwarilal family. Some more episodes of manipulations and politics of the joint family, and of the tale, diversify into the second generation when Sona gives birth to children after ten bitter years of barrenness. The sister Rupa however stays childless, but in many ways remains much happier.

The plot then twists around these second-generation people, but not before causing a little perturbation to this critic. While most of the characterizations are finely etched, it is difficult to sympathize with any of them. The sisters are selfish. The husbands are lethargic. The mother-in-law is a sassy old woman. The family patriarch is too mild. The children are self-absorbed and conventional.

There were encouraging possibilities of developing some empathy with a second-generation son — the only child of a deceased Banwarilal daughter dumped by her drunkard husband back into the family after her suspicious death — but it is spoiled when he starts sexually abusing his cousin sister. However, in spite of many characters and the sub-themes of various lives, the novel finally lurches into a single strand and fortunately stays there.

The story that had started with the tale of Sona and Rupa finally finds its calling in Nisha - Sona's daughter who spends her childhood, scarred by incestuous abuse, at Auntie Rupa’s home. But it is her later pursuits in life - studying English Literature in an university, falling in love with a low-caste boy, forcefully standing up to her conservative family, despairing at being jilted by the lover, her courage in struggling with the meanness of life, her attempts at finding her place in an uninformed society that refuses to recognize the promise of her merits, her petty jealousies, unarticulated complaints and simmering frustrations that inevitably accompanies a life riddled with disappointments — that become central to the concern of the readers.

Home quite fascinatingly, if not very eloquently, shows the choking closeness and destructive limitations of Indian family values. It is a closet dark world where any hint of individual expression is swiftly trampled to death, to be substituted with deadened conformity.

But despite the forlorn lives of its characters, Manju Kapur's novel has an undertone of humor that comes across effortlessly, an attribute that must be traced to the easy style in which Ms Kapur frames her sentences and to the uncomplicated narrative in which she structures her plots.

Perhaps inspired by Jane Austen, Ms Kapur also throws in some of her own comedy of manners as she very seriously describes in elaborate lengths the absurdities of traditions of middle-class housewives who have nothing better to do than to force young unmarried daughters to observe hunger-fasts for the long life of their future husbands.

Although it may be true that the novel stays clear of any great bombast or grandstanding in its theme and has not been touted about in the newspapers as the next best thing after Arundhati Roy's The God of Small Things (so typical of any new Indian novel in English), it still can not be denied that with a beginning that reminded this critic of the two sisters of Sense and Sensibility, a middle portion that evoked the sad humor of the Tulsi family of A House for Mr. Biswas and a concluding part that resembled the disillusioned life of Catherine Sloper of Washington Square, Home is a worthy Indian debut for Random House to publish and a fitting piece of writing for a reputed English Literature Professor like Ms Manju Kapur to be deservedly proud of.

THE END

Tuesday, August 22, 2006

Photo Essay: A Short Walk in Connaught Place

[Pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi. They cannot be used without his permission.]

The official name of Connaught Place is Rajiv Chowk, named after India's late Prime Minister. However, it is usually called CP by Delhi Wallas. Its colonial design, built by the British masters, was modeled after the Royal Crescent in Bath - an English town known for its most famous resident Jane Austen. A premier shopping and office district, right in the heart of Delhi, Connaught Place is a necessary tourist destination.

Gopaldas Bhawan at Barakhambha Traffic Light



A Man Reads His Newspaper, While You Read the Brand Names



Feeding Pigeons



A Peek into the White Corridors of the Inner Circle



Night Life Outside Rivoli Theater

Thursday, August 17, 2006

Photo Essay: How does a Delhi Walla Commute in the Times of Terrorism?

[Pictues by Mayank Austen Soofi]

8:15 AM: On Way to Office; Bomb Warning in a Delhi Transport Corporation Bus!


8:16 AM: Lurking Fear - Could This Man be a Bomber?


THE END

Friday, August 04, 2006

Delhi Vignettes - An NRI Visits Hometown and Sees a Changing India

[By Gaurav Sood. Mr. Sood works as an Editor and Web Development Specialist at the Harvard University. He visited Delhi early this year. Mr. Sood also mantains a blog: spinCycle]


MY flight landed on a humid and somewhat benign May morning in Delhi. My initial impression on reaching the Delhi airport was how much the airport had changed, thankfully for the better, since my last trip to Delhi two and a half years ago. The airport is still not even close to the level of even a country like Peru or Jordan or even Costa Rica, but still, the turnaround was there to be seen.

Indira Gandhi International Airport, as the Delhi Airport is named, still operates out of a puny single terminal building - which comes as a surprise for a country with so many development pretentions. Still on the topic of airports, I would like give a brief statistical snapshot that puts into perspective India's infrastructure or more pointedly lack of it - there are 333 airports in India including small airports handling only private jets as compared to US which has 14,857 (CIA Factbook, est. 2004) airports.

One would never discern the above facts admist all the hoopla surrounding India's emergence as the next economic power. The hoopla is of course not all bogus - fortunately there is an element of truth. Outside the airport, the roads leading to the centre of the city seemed broad and well paved, none of the shoddy tar-deficient loose gravel construction that had ailed Indian road construction for the past half century. The roads were lined by puny undergrown trees sitting in oversized steel cages. In a climate like Delhi, and where the trees are in constant danger of being marauded by cows (and hence the steel cages) it is hard to expect any better but none the less a sad spectacle.

Inevitably on our way to our house, we stopped at a red light and then there were the poor impoverished children, so dramatically captured by the firangi (western) tourists. It was a brief glimpse of the "old" Delhi that has been fairly well 'cleansed' with repeated demolition drives of jhuggis (poor hutments) and other deportation schemes to the extremities of Delhi.

Mall Culture

While in Delhi I visited Ansal Plaza, an old but 'happening' spot in Delhi and I entered a perfume showroom that seemed to have been transplated from US. Moving further along the airconditioned cooridors, I stepped onto the escalator, once an unimaginable luxury. I still remember an episode from the time when I was probably about 10 and we had gone to attend a reception at a five-star hotel. We parked our Chetak a couple of kilometers away and took a taxi to go to the hotel. And there in the hotel I first lay my eyes on an escalator in this beautiful building. The point is that escalators were potent symbols of luxury and I don't remember seeing any escalators while growing up.

Anyways, I clambered on to the escalator and entered a department store that had a sort of a haphazard but American department store-like decor. One thing that set apart the mall I visited in Delhi from the malls I have visited in US is just the sheer number of people out there to shop. Probably the number looked more because American malls are designed very spaciously while the 'mall' that I went to seemed a bit cramped. And I almost forgot one more thing that's different in Indian malls - the legions of well trained and polite sales staff. No there are not there right behind you making your life unbearable but just around so you can ask them what you like.

Delhi Metro

Delhi Metro is a landmark achievement for which Delhi Government and others associated with the project deserve unreserve accolades. It is a first world subway system built in record time, even by western standards. The subway cars appear to be of much higher quality than used on the Boston subway. The travel is quiter primarily because the path is straighter, there is a better carriage that locks out noise much more efficiently and the fact that the system uses overhead electrical cabling than the screechy 'third-rail'.

One thing that stuck me while travelling on the Delhi Metro was a sense of deja vu. It reminded me of a time when I was in Calcutta (now Kolkata) and I had taken the Calcutta Metro when it had just started. There was a police guard checking to see if people didn't step over the line and the general over-staffing that coincided with the inaugration of the system. A similar air of daintiness surrounds the current Delhi Metro. After all this is a first-world shiny subway system for a desperately poor city.

People act coy around the gleaming subway but I am sure that five years from now the train system would come to resemble the rat infested ramshackled system that our railways is. It will still work and be on time but the air conditioner would occassionally stop and there would be desperate overcrowding and the seats would be dirty. In all it would be "broken in". All said and done, it remains an impressive achievement. One last aspect of travelling on the Delhi metro - get ready for passing through a ramshackled metal detector system that probably doesn't work and a friendly pat down by a policeman.

In Memoriam

Delhi, the city where my parents grew up in and I grew up in, is vanishing behind the mindless facade of humdrum commercialization and sprawl. Delhi was never a beautiful city, at least not in my lifetime. Jamuna was always dirty and houses were built to occupy every square inch of land. It was an impoverished city with a tough, detached spirit that came from the number of Punjabi refugees that settled in Delhi after partition.

Narrow streets in a city give it a certain charm and intimacy but the forever widening sprawl of Delhi roads is destroying that feeling. Shabby jhuggis have been replaced by faceless parks that look out of place, and construction workers wear orange jackets like elsewhere in the first world, and rich kids now go to air conditioned schools. All of that has come at a cost. But this is a resurgent city, proud in the money it makes, proud in its metro and its flyovers, and buoyed by the economic and social upturn.

To Delhi, my home.

THE END

Tuesday, August 01, 2006

Books, Boobs and Breathing in New & Old Delhi

[Text by Mayank Austen Soofi; Picture Courtesy: Raymond Lee, Laurent Clere, Wengers Pastry Shop in Delhi]

Sex and Shakespeare
Pressing onto her
I whisper Romeo's farewell quote:
"One kiss, and I'll go down"

Monsoon Reading

July morning by a glass window
Rain falling outside
Mansfield Park carelessly opened on my lap

Alone in the Bed
The lamp discreetly hums
The night ages silently
Till I turn a page in Madame Bovary

Rush Hour

We evening commuters
The bus stuck in a red light signal
Just finished Jhumpa Lahiri in the latest New Yorker

Late Night Power Cut

1879 Glasgow published Hamlet, by candle light
Mango peels curled up on the dining table
The guard whistles

Two Timing

Outside the Wenger's in Connaught Place
Her left arm entwined in my right
My left holds on to Pride and Prejudice

Bonding with Toni Morrison
Bird song at dusk
Purple sky peering from orange clouds
Re-re-re-reading Beloved on a stone bench

Mussalmaans of Dilli

Jumma prayers in the Jama Masjeed
Believers bowing down in no order
I think of Salman Rushdie

'Celeb' Sighting

At Book Shop in Khan Market
Browsing for Alice Munro
Arundhati walks by

Sunday afternoon in Daryaganj

Scavenging in a hill of abandoned hardbounds
Sweat dripping off my brow
Comes across The Old Man and The Sea - first edition!

THE END