Saturday, August 30, 2008

City Secret - Sanjay Akhara, Majnu ka Tila

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City Secret - Sanjay Akhara, Ring Road

A special camp for wrestlers.

[Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi]

It’s Adidas meets the akhara, dumbbell meets the dand-baithak and rugby meets Rohtak.

The other day I stumbled into a settlement of wrestlers-in-training, just off the Ring Road, just next to Majnu ka Tila gurdwara. If you aspire to be a champion wrestler, go, join it. It's free. You'll only have to pay for your food bills.

I must add that the timing of my discovery was perfect. It was the week after Delhi wrestler Mr Sushil Kumar won bronze in the Beijing Olympics. But what I saw was beyond belief: around 50 young wrestlers from Sonepat, Bhiwani, Jhajjar, Hisar, Muzaffarnagar, Meerut, Rohtak and other off-the-map towns were warming up by playing… not wrestling but rugby.

“We call it ten-touch and it’s less violent than the regular rugby,” said coach Jagbir Singh Dahiya.

Girls would have loved the sight. One team played bare-bodied, all tight muscles and big chests. But this ain’t no rugby stadium, and sorry, no girls allowed here. This is serious kushti. The resident boys of Sanjay Akhara, run by Arjuna awardee Mr Sanjay Pehelwan, eat, drink, dream, talk and fight kushti. Ok, Bollywood siren Katrina Kaif is a distraction, but shhh…

The akhara is within the city limits and yet it’s like jangal mein mangal reminding you of the summer camp of Kuch Kuch Hota Hai. Nestled within a grove of trees, the sound of traffic becomes a distant hum. But the forest-like quiet doesn’t stop the boys from waking at four each morning and carrying on with the discipline: running 7 km, playing ‘ten-touch’, practising kushti, drinking doodh badaam, cooking, eating, sleeping away the afternoon… and then more kushti, food, TV (sports channels and movies) and good night — and then again good morning.

This 24-hour cycle needs extraordinary energy. “We daily consume 150 litres of milk,” said Mr Dahiya. Sixty kilos of badaam disappear each month. A room I looked into smelled of ghee.

All the doodh-ghee is converted into kinetic energy that you see bursting daily into dhaak dhaon and hathi chinghar moves on the dangal (mud pit). The lumps of earth there are soft and cool. The boys (by now they have taken off their remaining clothes except a langot) rub the soil on each other, well-oiled bodies for a less-slippery grip.

The game is then on.

To win, you have to make your rival fall flat on his back. The move is called patki. You have to twist him, pick him, fling him, topple him, shove him, ram into him or lay on him till he’s exhausted. Tough, but fun.

Khatron ka khiladi Akshay Kumar has many fans here but it’s Sushil Kumar who is the new hero. The 2010 Delhi Commonwealth Games are near and everyone’s dreaming of doing a Sushil, whose railway job is as attractive as his medal. “If we perform well, we may get a sarkari job,” said Mr Devender, a one-time roomie of Sushil.

Most folks here have supportive families behind them. But there are a few who came here against the wishes of their parents. “Kushti is like a junoon (obsession),” says a wrestler on a bench, his leg fractured.

“What a picnicky life this is,” I declare to Mr Pratap Pehelwan, the akhara’s bulky ustadji. He immediately took me inside a camp. Shared by three people, it had a rickety bed, unclean sheet, leaking roof. “This is what we have,” he said. “Sushil Kumar also had to live in one such place.” That’s a killjoy.

Ph 93124-54-923 (Mr Pratab Pehelwan)

Rugby comes to Delhi

City Secret - Sanjay Akhara, Ring Road

Jangal mein mangal

City Secret - Sanjay Akhara, Ring Road

Are you ready?

City Secret - Sanjay Akhara, Ring Road

Come on, boys

City Secret - Sanjay Akhara, Ring Road

Whose patki?

City Secret - Sanjay Akhara, Ring Road

You've got fracture, bro

City Secret - Sanjay Akhara, Ring Road

With clothes

City Secret - Sanjay Akhara, Ring Road

Without clothes

City Secret - Sanjay Akhara, Ring Road

Without clothes

City Secret - Sanjay Akhara, Ring Road

With clothes

City Secret - Sanjay Akhara, Ring Road

Sons of the soil

City Secret - Sanjay Akhara, Ring Road

Friday, August 29, 2008

Pretentious Gourmand - Diva, GK-II

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Fine Dining - Diva, Greater Kailash-II

Gluttony at Delhi's priciest stand-alone restaurant.

[By Mayank Austen Soofi]

One rainy Friday night, early in August, 2008, when our Indian army was killing 15-year-old Kashmiris at Sri Nagar's Idgah ground and when our fellow Indians were beating Kashmiri truck drivers in the highway in Jammu, we decided to dine at Diva, Delhi's most expensive Italian restaurant, owned and run by Delhi's celeb chef Ms Ritu Dalmia.

Before we even had the chance to admire the wine cellar or the candles, the focaccia arrived. The slightly oily starter made no impression on my dining companion, a friend from Berlin, who continued looking glum. Nah, it wasn't Kashmir. He turned 40 that week. I asked him to focus on the meal, or rather what comes before the meal – the antipasti.

Having a penchant for mushrooms, I opted for the portobello alla griglia (Rs 430); while my dining companion chose the crostini al gorgonzola con pere (Rs 340).

Diva has an elaborate 5-page wine menu with a selection of European and New World wines. The friend suggested Mormoreto from Tuscany but at Rs 7,200 I considered it a tad on the pricey side. We settled on a 2003 Pescorosso (Rs 2,600). For a red wine it is comparatively light and yet has body enough to go well with red meat (we ordered duck for the main course).

The bottle arrived just before our discovery of the inexpensive wine-by-the-glass option on the menu’s last page. No regrets. The first sensation was fruity (my friend 'saw' orchards), the throat easily gave way and there trailed a hint of walnut and dark chocolate and -- old wood! Err, an interruption.

The waiter: "we're very sorry sir.” A large family needed two more chairs. Could we move to the next table? The steward was polite, not sickeningly reverential. We got up, looked around (“my God, it had filled up”), and settled down closer to the large glass-paneled cellar.

Perhaps it was the wine that made the friend discuss his four lovers. I paid little attention and switched off completely when the antipasti arrived. The portobello mushrooms, stuffed with herbed ricotta and grilled on the wood-fired oven, covered the entire plate. They lacked in flavor, a setback overcome by the peppery essence of the moist-green rocket leaves. But originality lay in the friend’s crostini. The combo of grilled pears with a distinctive aroma of the Himalayan honey was a thoughtful Indo-Italian fusion. Alas, the crostini itself was somewhat over-toasted but its burnt aftertaste was forgiven as soon as the next dish appeared.

The angel hair pasta (Rs 390) tossed with cherry tomatoes, served with the omnipresent rocket leaves, was a perfect none-too-heavy primo piatto. The pasta was as light as a feather's touch. Tomato and mozzarella made for a cosy Italian feel while basil leaves were raw and cool. A requested sprinkling of freshly grated parmesan made the texture slippery.

The friend’s zuppa fredda di piselli (cold pea and fava bean soup, Rs 370), served in a kind of tumbler in which I used to have my doodh, had a lassi-like consistency and was lassi-like zesty. It could have done better with a little less ginger. But no fuss. The soup was as neat as the orange-shirted stewards who allowed us to play lazy over each course. They intruded our space only to refill our wine glasses.

The lucky wine found its soul mate in my double-roasted duck – anatra cucinata due volte (Rs 650) - that arrived decked with little bundles of carrot and zucchini juliennes. The bird's breast was meaty, brown, crisp, without the greasy aftertaste; its gaminess perked up by a dab of glazed honey. If only it was half as tender as the accompanying polenta, it would have been perfect.

The friend's carciofi ripieni (Rs 515) too looked tempting. The fresh artichokes, drooling in creamy gorgonzola, gained character with a generous stuffing of apples, onions, and walnuts. The eggplant pickle -- with dry fruits, olives, capres, tomatoes and lemons -- placed strategically at the centre, brought in the needful tanginess.

For the dessert, we asked for the calorie-rich tiramisu (Rs 280) -- 'carry me up' in Italian. Ladyfingers soaked in espresso and rum; and layered with mascarpone cream, the quivery tiramisu was originally popular among the overworked Venetian whores as an energy infuser. The friend mused on a past lover instead. "Nobody makes it as good as my French ex did," he said. Diva’s tiramisu too was no soggy mush. It was luscious, lighter-then-air, and boozy forcing the overawed Berliner to say that it was better than his ex's.

While returning, our tummies full with around seven thousand rupees, a child-beggar knocked on our car window at Moolchand traffic light. The friend shook his head at India's poverty. But I had no patience. Not for him, not for the beggar and neither for Kashmir.

Where M-8a, M Block Market, Greater Kailash-II Ph 29218522

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Society - Run Lutyens Run

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Run Lutyen Run

Searching for a perfect Lutyens’ living room.

[Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi]

I'm young. I too have a dream.

I want to be rich, famous and a VIP. In other words, I want to lord over a Lutyens' bungalow.

Meanwhile can someone tell me how cool are the taste of hi-fi people who live inside those pretty white houses? How is their living room? How thick are their curtains? How is the view outside from their frosted glass windows? How cold is their air conditioner? How many paintings hang on their walls? How many carpets deck their floor? (Or are there Italian marbles?) How many bookcases they have?

Who knows?

I've never got invitation to a Lutyen living room. Living in a jamnaa par apartment, I've been invited only to jamnaa par living rooms -- which are very 'classy', very 'artful', very 'valuable'. There I've admired made-in-China Mona Lisas, rexene sofas, glass-topped coffee tables, artificial flowers and plastic parrots, complete with green feathers and red beaks.

A few ambitious drawing rooms even boast of the complete never-opened volumes of Encyclopedia Britannicas. The hosts in such living rooms are almost always polite, the chai always come added with milk and conversations always deal with who-is-getting-married-to-whom and who-is-getting-what-salary. Like Jane Austen transported to a desi setting. Netherfields turning into Nangloi.

But the suspense remains?

What's the world like inside Lutyens' bungalows? I talked to a friend's friend who, thanks to his address on the other side of Yamuna, has regular access to these exalted places. "Most of the living rooms there are very simple," he revealed to my shock. "The rooms are usually large and they're never crowded with furniture or carpets." Indeed, the ostentation is limited only to mahogany bookshelves.

Ahem, dear reader, a warning here: don’t take my words for the absolute truth. These are versions of a friend’s friend and you had better double-check the claims with your… well, friend’s friend.

Just to widen my research, I called up a friend’s mother who is a sort of social butterfly in Chankayapuri living rooms. She said that she often sees old sofas, handsome writing tables and some odd pieces that do not always reflect a coordinated look.

That’s excusable. People living at that level can afford to look confused.

However, not all Lutyens’ living rooms are simple and artsy. The social butterfly recently went to the house of a new acquaintance whose name she wouldn’t divulge. “You’re the Delhi Walla; you’ll leak everything and ruin my friendship,” she said.

She then went on to ‘leak’ that her new friend’s centrally air-conditioned house has granite flooring, giant marble statues of Venus and a grand piano. “Everything looked flashy, everything was self-consciously placed and everyone was saying kya zabardast ghar banaya hai.

It seems jamnaa paar is no longer restricted to jamnaa ke paar. Mr Edwin Lutyens, run for your life.

Monday, August 25, 2008

Rant - Leave Delhi's Gay Bars Alone

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Raving 'n' Ranting in Gay Delhi

A response to The Delhi Walla's article on Peg N Pints.

[By Priya Sen; picture by Mayank Austen Soofi]

I chanced upon Mayank Austen Soofi's piece on Pegs N Pints, "Thank God It's Tuesday - Report From a New Delhi Gay Bar", and had to read it.

Pegs N Pints is a place close to my heart. I love it, I hate it, I want them to change their music, I laugh at its location in Lutyens' Delhi, and I'm delighted that it shares a compound with a wedding venue (You should go see the queens and aunties flaunting their stuff.)

It's a dive for god's sake. Who cares about the scratched wooden counter and the chipped beer glasses! It's too dark anyway - not unlike every other (gay/straight/mixed) club I've been to in many places in the world. And making that the setting for the sleaze Soofi so astutely observed seems a bit unimaginative.

And yet I'm none of those people Soofi happened to observe on the (one?) night he was there. Because I'm a girl! And not straight. And I go there very often. And I wish to be included in the smokiness and cruisiness and nymphiness.

But that isn't why I'm writing this.

I'm writing this because I don't think Mayank understand why a place like Pegs N Pints is important. And fragile, and precious, and vulnerable.

I looked and looked for a moment of irony in his piece - something to indicate that he were more than just convinced by the tone of his own piece (I can relate to getting carried away by ones own dramaturgy.. it's deeply satisfying to be able to get the mise-en-scene right!), and not loathed to identifying with any of those splendid human beings he described. (Was Mayank standing on the balcony?)

But sadly I found none. All I saw - and saw, partly because of his talent for description and partly because I can see PNP with my eyes closed - was a disturbing, semi-disclosed, shadowy, murky image of a place reeking of misplaced desire and overflowing with oversexed, depraved, and perhaps murderous homosexuals.

The last thing we need is to conjure up an image that looks alarmingly like the one that live in the heads of those who feel that homosexuals are basically criminal types and that homosexuality should remain illegal in India.

The only line that made me sense Mayank for a moment, as a boy amongst other boys on the dance floor, maybe even enjoying the pulsating and gyrating and jiggling, was - "He seemed unattainable".

It takes a lot of work and an unfathomable amount of time for people to even start to think of suspending judgement and for a space like this to come into being. It takes no time for it to be undone. Just think of how little it will take for PNP to be forever closed.

I appreciate the tension and drama that Mayank managed to communicate, and the recognizable edge that many queer people find themselves at - especially in public places, whatever the parameters of public might be - that he has alluded to in his piece.

I was into the desire bit too, but somehow it was set up for me in a way that made me seek salvation anywhere else but at PNP. And I didn't understand that. It was confusing. And PNP is never confusing. It is what it is. And it isn't what you say it is.

And the Cloak of Sleaze that Mayank has so generously adorned the happy/happy-sad PNP goers with, somehow doesn't fit everyone right. I think sleaze is definitely worth reclaiming, but I worry that if I do, it will undoubtedly have to change itself for me. And I am uncomfortable about doing that.

But that's another discussion.

Meanwhile, I think Mayank should definitely do a follow-up night out there. This time he must go on a Friday night. When it's straight. I would love to read what he will have to write about that.

[A longer version of this piece was originally published here]

Sunday, August 24, 2008

Special - A House for Mr Musharraf

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A House for Mr Musharraf

Pakistan's former Prez should return to his hometown Delhi.

[Text by Mayank Austen Soofi; photographer can not be traced]

Amid speculation that is exiling former Pakistani President Mr Pervez Musharraf's to different corners of the world (US, UK, Turkey, Saudi Arabia), The Delhi Walla proposes that he should come back to Delhi, the city of his birth.

Neher wali haveli in Daryaganj's Saad Ullah could be the ideal locale for Musharraf to set up his retirement home. It's the place where he spent the first four years of his life. In these solemn times, those childhood memories would provide him succour. Recently, an old cobbler in Daryaganj boasted to a Pakistani TV channel that Mr Musharraf had been his childhood buddy and that they both used to play in the haveli. If true, this could be a reunion of long-lost friends.

It's a happy coincidence that the haveli is just behind Golcha cinema. Mr Mushararf is said to be quite fond of Bollywood films (In 2005, Ms Rani Mukerji was the show-stealer at prime Minsiter Mr Manmohan Singh's dinner for him).

Still happier is the fact that Matia Mahal market is a rickshaw ride away from the haveli. Pakistanis are supposed to be great breakfast eaters and the Al Jawahar restaurant there offers some succulent mutton nihari whose each bite suffuses the diner with strength and vigour. What more could an army man want?

However, concerns abound. There are two families – Jains and Golas – squabbling over the property, with the Jains putting it up for sale for a whopping Rs 6 crore. Would Mr Musharraf, whose father sold the haveli for Rs 562, find it a good bargain? Can somebody used to a cantonment lifestyle feel at home in Daryaganj's dingy lanes?

"A bungalow in Malcha Marg will be a better choice," says a Pakistani diplomat who spoke on condition of anonymity since "it's a very sensitive subject". "Each time the General's heart beats for the fatherland, he would just have to take a short walk to Shantipath and gaze at the blue dome of our Pakistan embassy."

During days when Mr Musharraf would miss good friend George Bush, he could hop over to the nearby American embassy and spend an evening with the ambassador listening to Barbara Streisand's The way we were. Better still: Chinese embassy, lying next to Malcha Marg, could be a comforting presence. In his state trip to Beijing in 2006, Mr Musharraf had described friendship between Pakistan and China as "deeper than the ocean and higher than the mountain".

However, Mr Musharraf's Lucknow-born wife Madam Saheba might not be able to exchange notes on chikan-kurtas and chicken-do-pyaza in the Malcha Marg society of mademoiselles and frauleins.

How about Lodhi Estate? It's near Khan Market, which would keep Mrs Mush happily occupied. Khan Market also has good doggie stores (Mr Musharraf flaunted his two Pomeranians after his military coup in 1998) and IIC is a 10-minute stroll away where the ex-prez can attend lectures of visiting Pakistanis and later down whiskey in the high-brow bar there.

So General sahib, all's forgotten. Come home. "What! It is a completely impossible idea for Musharraf to live in Delhi," says Ms Jugnu Mohsin, publisher of Friday Times, Pakistan's weekly newspaper. "He will never do that." Prove her wrong, Mr Musharraf.

Friday, August 22, 2008

Capital Institution - Memories of Stephania

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Memories of Stephania

On St Stephen's, Delhi's most prestigious college.

[By Shashi Tharoor; the picture was taken when Mr Tharoor had just won the elections for the Presidency of St Stephen's in 1974.]

The Delhi Walla’s invitation to look back on my years at St Stephen’s College raises one awkward consideration at the very outset. After all, what does the very name "St Stephen's" convey to outsiders?

Let's face it: to non-Stephanians, the term "St Stephen's" conjures up three overlapping concepts, none of which is meant to be flattering -- elitism, Anglophilia and deracination. One is obliged to confront this stereotype head on.

When I was given the rare privilege of delivering the 125th Anniversary Golden Jubilee Lecture at the College (the 100th anniversary had featured another old boy, Pakistan’s then President Zia ul-Haq), I was able to take for granted that few in the audience (which included serving and former Cabinet Ministers, Ambassadors and Generals, not to mention the assorted CEOs and cricket stars) would contest that there is a spirit that can be called Stephanian: most of us had spent three or five years living in and celebrating it.

Stephania was both an ethos and a condition to which we aspired. Elitism was part of it, but by no means the whole. In any case “Mission College”'s elitism was still elitism in an Indian context, albeit one shaped, like so many Indian institutions, by a colonial legacy.

There is no denying that the aim of the Cambridge Brotherhood in founding St Stephen's in 1881 was to produce more obedient subjects to serve Her Britannic Majesty; their idea of constructive missionary activity was to bring the intellectual and social atmosphere of Camside to the dry dustplains of Delhi. Improbably enough, they succeeded, and the resultant hybrid outlasted the Raj.

The St Stephen's I knew in the early 1970s was an institution whose students sustained a Shakespeare Society and a Criterion Club, and organised Union Debates on such subjects as "In the opinion of this House the opinion of this House does not matter". We staged plays and wrote poetry, ran India's only faculty-sanctioned Practical Joke Competition (in memory of P.G. Wodehouse's irrepressible Lord Ickenham), and invented the "Winter Festival" of collegiate cultural competition, which was imitated at universities across the country.

If that sounds deplorably effete, we invariably reached the annual inter-college cricket final, and turned up in large numbers to cheer the Stephanian cricketers on to their accustomed victory. (One of my few worthwhile innovations as President of the Union, aside from improving the mess food, was to supply throat lozenges free of charge to the more raucous of our cheerleaders at the cricket final. I am told this is one more Stephanian tradition that, along with our cricket team, has bitten the dust.)

We maintained a careful distinction between the Junior Common Room and the Senior Combination Room, and allowed the world's only non-Cantabridgian "gyps" to serve our meals and make our beds. And if the punts never came to the Jamuna, the puns flowed on the pages of Kooler Talk (known to Stephanians as “KT”, or “Katie”) and the cyclostyled Spice (whose typing mistakes were deliberate, and deliberately hilarious.)

This was the St Stephen's I knew, and none of us who lived and breathed the Stephanian air saw any alien affectation in it. For one thing, St Stephen's also embraced the Hindi movies at Kamla Nagar, the trips to Sukhiya's dhaba and the chowchow at TibMon (as the Tibetan Monastery was called); the nocturnal Informal Discussion Group saw articulate discussion of political issues, and the Social Service League actually went out and performed social service; and even for the "pseuds", the height of career aspiration was the IAS, not some firang multinational.

The Stephanian could hardly be deracinated and still manage to bloom. It was against Indian targets that the Stephanian set his goals, and by Indian assumptions that he sought to attain them. (Feminists, please do not object to my pronouns: I only knew St Stephen's before its co-edification.)

At the same time St Stephen's was, astonishingly for a college in Delhi, insulated to a remarkable extent from the prejudices of middle-class Indian life. It mattered little where you were from, which Indian language you spoke at home, what version of religious faith you espoused.

When I joined College in 1972 from Calcutta, the son of a Keralite newspaper executive, I did not have to worry about fitting in: we were all minorities at St Stephen's, and all part of one eclectic polychrome culture. Five of the preceding ten Union Presidents had been non-Delhiite non-Hindus (four Muslims and a Christian), and they had all been fairly elected against candidates from the "majority" community.

But at St Stephen's religion and region were not the distinctions that mattered: what counted was whether you were "in residence" or a "dayski" (day-scholar), a "science type" or a "DramSoc type", a sportsman or a univ topper (or best of all, both). Caste and creed were no bar, but these other categories determined your share of the Stephanian experience.

This blurring of conventional distinctions was a crucial element of Stephania. "Sparing" with the more congenial of your comrades in residence -- though it could leave you with a near-fatal faith in coffee, conversation and crosswords as ends in themselves -- was manifestly more important than attending classes.

And in any case, you learned as much from approachable faculty members – like David Baker, Mohammed Amin, Ranjit Bhatia, P.S. Dwivedi, Vinod Choudhury and others too numerous to mention -- outside the classroom as inside it. (It was at one of Amin Sahib's Mediaeval History lectures that he memorably translated the words inscribed above the stage in the College Hall – Jesus said, “I am the Light of the World” – as "Jesus ne kahan, main Noor Jehan hoon".)

Being ragged outside the back gate of Miranda House, having a late coffee in your block tutor's room, hearing outrageous (and largely apocryphal) tales about recent Stephanians who were no longer around to contradict them, seeing your name punned with in KT, were all integral parts of the Stephanian culture, and of the ways in which this culture was transmitted to each successive batch of Stephanians.

Three years is, of course, a small -- and decreasing -- proportion of my life, but my three years at St Stephen's marked me for all the years to follow. Partly, this was because I joined College a few months after my sixteenth birthday and left it a few months after my nineteenth, so that I was at St Stephen's at an age when any experience would have had a lasting effect.

But equally vital was the institution itself, its atmosphere and history, its student body and teaching staff, its sense of itself and how that sense was communicated to each individual character in the Stephanian story.

Too many Indian colleges are places for lectures, rote-learning, memorising, regurgitation; St Stephen's encouraged random reading, individual note-taking, personal tutorials, extra-curricular development. Elsewhere you learned to answer the questions, at College to question the answers. Some of us went further, and questioned the questions.

Standing at the College on the 125th birthday of St Stephen's, I remembered the values the college had taught me, in the classroom and outside it. St Stephen's influenced me fundamentally, gave me my basic faith in all-inclusive, multi-spirited, free-thinking cultures, helped shape my mind and define my sense of myself in relation to the world, and so, inevitably, influenced what I have done later in life -- as a man, as a United Nations official, and as a writer.

Stephania encouraged the development of qualities that would stand me in good stead in each of these activities.

So when I look back at College today, I celebrate the secularism, the pan-Indian outlook, the well-rounded education, the eclectic social interests, the questioning spirit and the meritocratic culture that are the vital ingredients of the Stephanian ethos.

These are what the idea of Stephania contributes to the idea of India I have described in my books and speeches around the world. The moment any of these ingredients is removed, St Stephen’s will no longer be St Stephen’s.

[The author is the Chairman of Dubai-based Afras Ventures and former Under-Secretary-General of the United Nations, he was the official candidate of India for the succession to UN Secretary-General Kofi Annan in 2006.]

Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Society - Delhi's Low Parsi 'Meter'

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Dar-e-Meher, Delhi's only fire temple

The city's Parsi population is struggling to survive.

[Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi]

On the breezy evening of August 19th, 2008, around 0.0053715 per cent of the population of Delhi and its surrounding regions were invited to celebrate Navroz, the Parsi new year, at the city's 58-year-old Parsi Dharamshala in Bahadurshah Zafar Marg. There was music, dancing, mutton pulao, salli murghi (no patrani machhi!) and cheerful cries of "Saal Mubarak."

The ancestors of these happy people, fleeing persecution in Persia, had landed on India's western shores more than a thousand years ago. However, their history in Delhi is relatively new. In 1913, there were hardly 30 Parsis here. At one point their number crossed 1,000 before dwindling to a couple of hundreds. Now there are fears that they would be silenced forever.

"Our community is disappearing from the face of the earth," says Mrs Ava Khullar, a 73-year-old Parsi woman who married into a Hindu family but is still active in the community where she serves as trustee of the Delhi Parsi Anjuman.

As if accentuating her foreboding, the city's Parsi brotherhood appears cloaked in a blink-and-you-miss shroud. While driving, you won't know when you zoom past Dar-e-Meher, the Capital's only fire temple, next to Maulana Azad medical college. Not many know that there's a tiny Parsi cemetery hidden behind Khan Market.

Perhaps such ignorance is understandable, for it's Mumbai that is the base of India's Parsis. Out of around 70,000 Zoroastrians in India, 55,000 live there.

In the National Capital Region, their number is embarrassingly low. Check out the 'Parsi Meter' at delhiparsis.com. The population stat displayed there is so low that if you catch all Parsis in town, you would still not be able to fill the 980-seater Delite cinema.

On the day of writing this story, the meter reported only 752 Parsis in this city of 14 million. The reasons are the same as in other cities: emigration, inbreeding, infertility, and marrying outside the community.

The last is considered most threatening. "When Parsi women marry non-Parsi men, their children are more likely to adopt the religion of their fathers," says Mrs Dhun Darains Bagli, who manages Parsi Dharmshala.

Sometimes it is difficult even for children with a Parsi father to get initiated into the religion if their mother is not from the community, especially in the more orthodox Mumbai Parsi circle.

Inter-religious marriage, however, is inevitable as a third of the population is 60-plus and a lot of young Parsis have moved abroad, leaving the rest with no choice of a suitable chokra or chokri.

Amid these dismal tidings, a religious revival is taking place among the young Parsis, says Mrs Bagli. "They are going to the fire temple more often than the previous generation." In July this year, the community celebrated Navjote (the initiation ceremony into the religion) of four children.

There are a few more reasons to be optimistic: come to the Dharamshala any second Saturday and you would find Parsis aged 5-20 years assembled there for Farohar (a special class for religious awakening). Even intermarriage has its advantages. "When people marry outside their religion, they grow more interested about where they have come from," says Mr Mehernosh Shapoorjee of delhiparsis.com.

"Besides, we Parsis never lose our own in communal riots," says Mrs Bagli. "We shall survive."

Daughter needs a suitable Parsi chokra

Delhi's Low Parsi 'Meter'

All quiet at Parsi Dharamshala

Delhi's Low Parsi 'Meter'

The rest is silence

Delhi's Low Parsi 'Meter'

Sunday, August 17, 2008

Photo Essay - Shab-e-Baraat at Hazrat Nizamuddin

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Shab-e-Baraat at Hazrat Nizamuddin

Observing the holy night in the Dargah.

[Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi]

Sunday, August 17. Shab-e-Baraat, the night of destiny when one’s sins are pardoned and the fate sealed for the coming year. Scene: in the Dargah of Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya. Crowd. Candles. Sweet rice. A long queue for the main shrine.

Why join the folks there? I’m content to pray outside in the courtyard. You see I don’t need to be physically close to the tomb of my Mehboob-e-Ilahi for He resides inside my heart.

However, Altammash and Fida, my friends, young khadims (servants) in the Dargah, offers the advantage of their influential position in the shrine bureaucracy to sneak me in through the 'shortcut'. I'm hesitant but...what-the-heck!

Finally, inside. Standing next to the Hazrat. Kissing the pillar and murmuring prayers. Few minutes dissolve in a second.

Back into the courtyard. It had rained the whole day but now the sky has cleared and the moon is glowing – up there.

Allah be with you.

Facing the Beloved

Shab-e-Baraat at Hazrat Nizamuddin

All lit up

Shab-e-Baraat at Hazrat Nizamuddin

Wait for your turn

Shab-e-Baraat at Hazrat Nizamuddin

Attend to the candle, please

Shab-e-Baraat at Hazrat Nizamuddin

My friends, Fida (left) and Altamash

Shab-e-Baraat at Hazrat Nizamuddin

We're all aashiqs

Shab-e-Baraat at Hazrat Nizamuddin

Mera chaand

Shab-e-Baraat at Hazrat Nizamuddin

Thursday, August 14, 2008

Society - Rich Girls, Handsome Milkmen

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Rich Girls, Handsome Milkmen

A south Delhi girls runs off with a doodhwaala.

[Text by Mayank Austen Soofi; picture by Sonu Mehta]

It is a truth universally acknowledged that a single woman in possession of a big car in south Delhi must be in want of a boyfriend with a bigger car in south Delhi.

Early in August, 2008,, turning the rule upside down, a 22-year-old girl, a resident of the posh East of Kailash, ran away with her Mr Darcy. But this boyfriend had no bungalow in Vasant Vihar, no farmhouse in Chattarpur. Instead, he was a doodhwaala!

The handsome milkman was delivering milk to the girl’s house for six months. “She became close to him and they fell in love,” said a police officer who got embroiled in their affair after the runaway couple made some pre-wedding shopping through a family friend’s debit card.

The Delhi Walla decided to check out if this episode has stirred fear in the hearts of south Delhi parents. “I’ll be horrified if God forbid, my daughter runs away with a courier,” says Okhla resident Ms Rakhshanda Jalil, a well-known writer and mother of two young daughters. “While this incident is too sad, I do feel that raising young children in this city is a 24/7 hazard. There are no certainties in life,” she says. “You don’t know how things will turn out.”

However, in this increasingly materialistic age where love comes padded with a fat bank balance, just why would a girl who could have any white-collar executive as her date, fall for a blue-collar boy?

“There are instances when emotional sensibilities overwhelm the socially driven values,” says Dr Gorav Gupta, senior consultant psychiatrist with Apollo hospital, Sarita Vihar. “Sometimes a person’s family circumstances grow messy and she hangs on to anyone who can get her out of that nest.”

“I am definitely getting my milk from Mother Dairy,” says Ms Rama Chaudhary, a resident of Defence Colony. But she is not really scared by milkmen. “The most serious threat to my 21-year-old are the gym instructors. They are suave, articulate, tall and well-built. Their close proximity with my daughter during the workout could possibly turn to an infatuation,” she adds.

Ms Pearl Toppo, a 24-year-old girl who lives with parents in a four-room DDA apartment in Vasant Kunj, confesses having a soft corner for a soft-spoken boy who sits in the reception of her neighborhood gym. “He side-parts his hair, has chocolate looks, grey eyes, and he is not muscular,” says Pearl who doesn’t like muscular guys. “I would love to fall for him but his problem is he can’t speak English.”

“My driver is not fluent in English but he is very hot,” says 20-year-old Ms Priya, owner of a Hyundai Accent who lives in Panchsheel Park. “Being from the hills, he has that tough, chiselled look.” While commuting long distances in the city, Ms Priya sometimes is tempted to get chattier with him. Any chance she may fall in love with the driver? “To be in love, I need to connect with and relate to the person, which is hard to do with a driver."

Amidst the ‘hot’ drivers and cooks, Ms Jalil reminds you of what goes through parents’ lives if their children resort to such acts. "It’s a personal tragedy for the family."

Some names have been changed to protect privacy.

Tuesday, August 12, 2008

Shahnaz Husain's Capital - Yesterday Tehran, Today Delhi

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Shahnaz Husain's Capital - Yesterday Tehran, Today Delhi

India's most famous beauty expert copes with the whims of an evolving city.

[By Shahnaz Husain; the author's picture was taken during 1971]

I was born in Hyderabad, married in Lucknow, moved to Tehran, came to Delhi and then never left the city.

During my early years in the city, in the 70s, Delhi was less cosmopolitan than Tehran. The capital of the Shah of Iran was the city of tomorrow. Ice skating and bowling became popular in Delhi only during the 90s; Tehran was buzzing with them 20 years ago.

The women there dressed in the latest French style — but underneath an abaya. Still, they managed to attract onlookers with their enchanting kohl-lined eyes. However, public display of affection and free mingling of men and women were not encouraged in Iran, just as it was in Delhi.

In Tehran, I loved visiting Shemiran, the royal family’s summer residence, on the slopes of Alburz mountains. With trimmed gardens and elegant mansions, the district was an address of Iran’s elite.

Buzurg, the city’s most popular bazaar, was lined with shops stacked with turquoise jewellery and delicately embroidered fabrics. In Delhi, I never missed Buzurg; there was always Chandni Chowk.

However, today’s Delhi is nothing like it was in the 70s. There were more trees then, and I do not remember Blueline buses. We had tongas on which I would go to India Gate with children, all of us nibbling on bhooni hui garma garam moongfali. We would ride on them on our way to see films in Golcha and Sheila, and to have kebabs and coffee in CP — for just Rs 10.

These were our little pleasures which today’s generation can never have. Now, poolside hotel parties have replaced living room mehfils. The warmth of the shopkeepers has given way to the anonymity of shop assistants in imposing malls.

But Delhi continues to throb with vitality and excitement. Old times might be dying but I’m able to enjoy myself in the promises of the new era. Earlier, I adored the chicken tikkas served at the Café Purani Dilli in Chanakyapuri. It shut down. Now there’s Barista. I have a special liking for it. I go there daily with family and friends. I even have staff meetings there. Sometimes I ask my staff to bring their families in the café and we all have a good time.

While I do miss the personal touch of old markets, Saket’s Select City Walk mall has become my favourite shopping destination.

However, in these changing times, one thing has remained contant — Greater Kailash. I may have changed houses, changed blocks, but I’ve never changed this neighbourhood. GK is home.

The author is one of the country’s biggest beauty experts and entrepreneurs.

Saturday, August 09, 2008

Citizen Profile - Rohit Malik, Delhi's Struggling Blogger

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Rohit Malik, Delhi's Struggling Blogger

Confronting, fighting and surviving odds.

[Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi]

He has no job, no laptop. His resume shows no fancy school, no fancy college. Meet 30-year-old Mr. Rohit Malik, owner of delhievents.com, one of Delhi's most popular websites.

Newspaper supplements depend on it to beef up their weekend listings. Author William Dalrymple calls it "a terrific website". Theatre director Sayeed Alam thinks that it "is one of the best things to have happened to Delhi in the recent past". With such a sunny outlook, you might imagine Mr. Malik to be the toast of the town, busy milking the cash cow out of India's Internet revolution, working hard and playing harder. The reality is different.

Mr. Malik's life is about working hard and working harder.

The alarm wakes Mr. Malik daily at 5 am in his Indira Nagar home in north Delhi. He then logs on to his assembled computer, purchased from Wazirpur computer market, updates the listings on his home page, reads "4-5 newspapers", returns to the computer, uploads a few more event details, starts tapping on the mobile phone, calls artists and organisations for information on events, e-mails others, goes back to the website and uploads, updates more stuff.

Outings usually mean evenings in the India Habitat Centre – on days when he has noticed that it's already evening. And being self-employed means no off days. "I work seven days a week," Mr. Malik told The Delhi Walla the other day. Obviously, he can't report sick to himself.

Mr. Malik had started delhievents.com in early 2006 and got his first earning three months later – a sum of about $3, courtesy Google ads. Till now, he has made around $1,500. Even when translated into rupees, that doesn't come to a lot of zeroes.

His parents are not happy about their son's unconventional way of making a living. "They see other people's children in good jobs and then they see me still struggling, still trying to make decent money," Mr. Malik says. "They also don't know much about the Internet, so they sort of distrust my work." The lack of revenue was taking its toll: a few weeks ago, Mr. Malik decided to shut down the website. However, with the promise of some more advertising, he kept it afloat.

"I've always done my own thing," he says. "delhievents.com will stay." What keeps him going? "There's no money right now but this site is creatively satisfying, it puts me right in the thick of Delhi's cultural life and, yes, I soon hope to start making a profit."

Mr. Malik's determination has returned after the temporary gloom. Or so it seems to The Delhi Walla.

Wednesday, August 06, 2008

City Life - Defence Colony Dreams

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Defence Colony Dreams

Living a Happy India life in South Delhi.

[Pictures and text by Mayank Austen Soofi]

My address has changed. I'm now the Shah of the Jahan, the king of the world. I've moved from the wrong side of the Yamuna to the right side. From Lower East Side to the heart of upper crust Delhi. Such a long journey: from Anand Vihar to Defence Colony.

Def Col. The culmination of my dreams. So many times have I wistfully glanced at it from my Blueline window as the 543 would rumble down the smoggy Ring Road. Would the day ever come when I would live here? Nahi, how could that be possible?

There are only three Def Col types:
a) Your pa is rich, rich, rich
b) You have become a cricket star-turned-soft-drink-endorser
c) You are an expat from a shiny white land

I am none of these. But I was muqaddar ka sikandar. An expat friend living in C block had to urgently go 'back home' to US for a month and she requested, "I don't want to leave the house all abandoned. Can you please stay here?" (Jackpot!) "Er, yes, let me think about it. I suppose I could. That's what friends are for." (Excitement contained.)

Scene I: Defence Colony bungalow. Time: 6 am. My first day here. I'm alone in this big house. Each room has its own remote-controlled air-conditioner (there are six rooms). Imported books line the walls. Walls decked with paintings purchased from Paris, Rio de Janeiro, San Francisco and Dilli Haat (Madhubani, of course). Recent issues of Vanity Fair in the magazine rack; Puccini and Britten fill up the CD rack. Proper shower curtain in the bathroom and white thick soft towels (bilkul 5-star hotel type) hanging behind the door. What luxury, yaara!

Now, follow me to the kitchen (I'm feeling like Laura Bush conducting a televised White House tour). Open the bumper-sized Samsung refrigerator. It's all Khan Market and INA inside: Dijon mustard (from France), Remia French salad dressing (from Holland), Pollis Olive Denocciolate (from Italy), DAK chopped ham (from Denmark) leeks, asparagus.

To add to these first-world luxuries, there's an English-speaking maid from Jharkhand who cooks everything from hummus to Thai green curry. Last night, she made pasta with cherry tomatoes and arugulas. ("Sir, please tell me what are you liking for tomorrow?")

Scene II: Outside in Defence Colony. Time: 6.30 am. Taking a walk. Ignoring barking dogs, security guards and construction labourers. Concentrating on the white bare arms of expat memsahibs as they lean on their bungalow balconies. So relaxed, so content.

It's true. People of south Delhi are happier than other Delhiwallas. Their trees are greener, their birds chirpier, their sky bluer, their air cleaner, their cars fancier. Theirs is a better world. I'm jealous.

Scene III: Bathroom. Time: 7 am. I fill the bathtub with warm water, take off my clothes and slowly step in. Ooh la la, this bathtub business is so relaxing. I close my eyes and breathe deeply. Yuck, I see my friend. She would return next month and I would have to leave for Anand Vihar. Then it will be back to bucket bath.

High dreams

Defence Colony Dreams

Ignore the 'servant class'

Defence Colony Dreams

...And their children too

Defence Colony Dreams

Laying foundation for one more dream

Defence Colony Dreams

Not all welcome in the club

Defence Colony Dreams

Sunday, August 03, 2008

City Buzz - Barack's Backroom Boys in Delhi

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Barack's Backroom Boys in Delhi

Yanks play their politics in the Indian capital.

[Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi]

On his overseas trip to Paris, Berlin, London, Baghdad and Kabul in July, 2008, Barack Obama didn't find time to visit Delhi. Is he aware that the route to the January 20th inauguration day is passing through Delhi's Khan Market bylane?

On a recent Saturday morning, at 11 am, about a dozen volunteers of Democrats Abroad-India, the overseas branch of the Democrat party in India, donned Obama tees, Obama badges, donkey hats and marched up and down in pairs at Khan Market, Delhi's first-world bubble, to catch anybody who looked like an American. The purpose was to register US citizens in the Capital so that they could vote in the Presidential elections in November. As the 2000 Bush-Gore face-off proved, every vote counts, which is why they were chasing US expats.

Although the volunteers were Democrats (donkey is the Democrat party symbol), this was a non-partisan event. "We welcome all Americans – Democrats, Republicans and Independents," said Carolyn Sauvage-Mar, a Safdarjung Enclave resident and chair of Democrats Abroad-India, in a conversation with The Delhi Walla.

However, as Khan Market is a hangout for goras ranging from Bulgarians to Belgians to Bolivians, it must not had been easy to guess who was American and who wasn't. "Because of the fliers that our volunteers carried, Americans approached to us by themselves," said Nick Robinson, a campaigner.

The Yanks were invited to Choko La, in the middle lane, and taken to the top floor, where they were assisted in requesting an absentee ballot. Then then sat down with fellow Yanks and ordered specially discounted chocolate shakes. No free food.

This 'voter soliciting' was a new sight for Delhiwallas but it's common 'back home'. It's a countdown to Obama-McCain contest and in the US, thousands of volunteers are thronging shopping malls, baseball stadiums, schools and other public places to enlist voters. Now their eyes are firmly set on the 60,000 here in India.

Indeed, Democrats Abroad-India, one of the Democrat party committees with branches in 44 countries, has started American-style polling right here in Delhi. In February this year, the committee put up a polling station in Lodi Colony's Ploof restaurant, where Americans cast votes in the presidential primaries – a first time here. In March, it held an election-special dating game at the American Embassy School where nuclear disarmament, climate change and other issues dear to liberal Americans were debated and dissected. In May, they gathered at Lodi Garden's Athpula Pul to participate in the worldwide Bridges for Obama campaign.

And then it was the turn of Khan Market. Why Saturday? "Many Americans do their shopping at Khan Market on weekend mornings," says Sauvage-Mar. "There are thousands of unregistered voters in this city and we'd hoped to catch a few of them," she says.

This desperation to grab every voter had sent the Democrats flying all over the country – from Chennai to Mumbai to Bangalore. But it's only in Delhi where they 'infiltrated' a bazaar. In other metros, the excitement was limited to parties at pricey restaurants.

However, you say what is there for Indians? Umm, digest the bitter truth: the entire world can't vote for the US President but that guy is likely to be the world's most powerful person. Better take an interest.

Catch them, catch them

Barack's Backroom Boys in Delhi

Obama's donkeys

Barack's Backroom Boys in Delhi

That's me!

Barack's Backroom Boys in Delhi

Saturday, August 02, 2008

Exclusive - Pakistani Novelist Reviews The Delhi Walla's Sister Site

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Indian Intellectuals Can’t Accept Pakistan

The blog's intentions are good, the execution clumsy.

[Text by Bina Shah; Picture by Muhammad Zaheer Mohsin]

Pakistan's eminent novelist Bina Shah reviews Pakistan Paindabad, the sister-site of The Delhi Walla.

Ms Shah writes:
Mayank Austen Soofi seems to have no editorial agenda, commissioning articles informally and writing features of varying length, style, and quality. The result is hit or miss: hit when Soofi plays the role of the wide-eyed wanderer, moving through Lahore markets or Karachi streets with hunger to find out about life on the “other side”. He misses when trying his hand at more sophisticated writing: some of his satires fall flat, others are cringe-worthy, and then there are some that induce in the reader a feeling of confusion or misunderstanding.

Click here to read the full review at Pakistan Paindabad.