Friday, February 27, 2009

The New Dalit - Neeta Vaid, Valmiki Sadan

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The New Dalit - Neeta Vaid, Valmiki Sadan

She wants other people to bow before her.

[Text and picture by Mayank Austen Soofi]

When she was in the 10th standard, she wanted to be an air hostess. Now she is in the 12th, and wants to be an IAS officer.

"Air hostesses have to bend their back for other people," says Ms Neeta Vaid, a 18-year-old school girl who lives in Delhi's Valmiki Sadan, popularly known as Dalit Colony. (This story is the second of a five-part series – The New Dalit, The Changing World of Delhi's 'Untouchables'.) "But district magistrates make other people bend towards them."

For someone whose father is a driver and mother a sweeper, this back-bending business certifies honour, prestige and power. "If you become successful and commanding, no one will ask about your background," Ms Vaid says.

While no one in her relations has risen to such heights, Ms Vaid is expected to make the breakthrough. Papa wants her to be an IAS (Indian Administrative Service) officer and mummy thinks she can do it. The girl's life now completely revolves around 'Mission IAS'. She has grown so obsessed with "my father's dream" that her favourite teacher is not her favourite merely because she teaches well, but also because her husband happens to be an IAS officer.

All sacrifices seem to be worth it. Reading may not always be fun but if that cracks the code, so be it. "I don't read for enjoyment but for gaining knowledge," she says. "I regularly read the Time magazine." Since this weekly American magazine is priced at Rs 100, Ms Vaid has to go to a library, which is a 5-minute walk away from home, and she ends up spending around three hours there everyday.

Indeed, her every hour is carefully scheduled. There seems to be no carefree moment. When out, she is either at the school or in the library. If at home, she's most probably watching NDTV 24/7, the uppity English language TV news channel. "So that I can learn to speak English better."

To her, it is important how people talk and carry themselves. That's why Ms Vaid doesn't plan to vote for Mayawati, India's most popular Dalit leader, in the national elections scheduled later in 2009. Mayawati is often disdained in upper caste Delhi living rooms as a corrupt politician.

"I'm put off by her way of dressing and especially the way she talks," Ms Vaid says. "If Mayawati becomes India's prime minister, we would most likely have Delhi invaded by cows and buffaloes from the countryside."

There is another reason why Mayawati must count out Ms Vaid from her scheme of things. "Mayawati just talks Dalit, Dalit, Dalit and that reduces us to being just that," she says, "but hello, we are also Hindus, also Indians."

You may also like to read:
The New Dalit – Sanjay Salwan, Valmiki Sadan
He wants to be the world's best saxophone player

The New Dalit - Praveen Parcha, Valmiki Sadan
He is against job reservations for Dalits

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Photo Essay – Rajiv Gandhi Jhuggi Camp, East Delhi

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Slum guide for dummies

Slum guide for dummies.

[Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi]

Heady after Slumdog Millionaire's eight Oscars, The Delhi Walla has said tata-bye to monuments. It's slum tourism, for now. While Dharavi in Mumbai has already spawned that trend, Delhi has no such dynamic hub of prosperity in adversity. But should you want to see for yourself how the ‘other half’ lives, I give you a handy primer, taking the Rajiv Gandhi Jhuggi Jhopri camp in east Delhi (next to Karkardooma flyover) as an example.

What are slums like?
From outside, you might think the first big gust of wind will sweep them away. But in truth, slum dwellings are tenacious – like the people who live in them.

What to expect inside?
Squalor, clogged drains, slush-filled alleys, but also – you’ll be surprised – happy families and neighbourly bonding, like in any colony anywhere in the world.

Can I visit a home?
Very conveniently. Slum dwellers don't shut themselves behind locked doors. Walking past the houses, you can usually see what’s going on inside – somebody sleeping, somebody cooking, somebody staring, somebody bawling, somebody getting close to somebody else. Should you want to get in, try acting a little lost and maybe in need of some rest on a hot day. Ask, and you shall get an invitation.

What about privacy?
Washing dishes, brushing teeth, showers... all take place at the same public hand pump. On his field trip, this blogger found long queues outside a community loo. A funny sight: people clutching their tummies to ward off the ‘pressure’. The same thing you saw in Slumdog Millionaire.

Are our slums like Dharavi?
Nah. This place, at best, could attract a documentary film crew from JNU. But Hollywood? Forget it. There's no Dharavi energy or enterprise here. At least, not visibly.

Are the kids street-smart like Slumdog's Jamal?
Well, there was no kid caked in crap; probably because Danny Boyle doesn’t live in Delhi. Kids here are cattier than Jamal, if anything. Hardly anyone appeared to be a future chaiwalla, or a gangster, or a gangster’s moll. Instead, the children were getting ready for school.

Such is life

Slum guide for dummies

Yet, life is cheery

Slum guide for dummies

Street buddies

Slum guide for dummies

Slice of sky

Slum guide for dummies

Sunny here

Slum guide for dummies

It's all public

Slum guide for dummies

No privacy

Slum guide for dummies

Shh, he's reading

Slum guide for dummies

Off to the school

Slum guide for dummies

Monday, February 23, 2009

Maximum City – Being Indian in the Indian Capital

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"India is Not My Country"

A young man from Kashmir says that India is not his country.

[Text and picture by Mayank Austen Soofi]

He is half Delhiwalla but the 18-year-old Mr Peerzada Shah Fahad avoids the label. He may have two homes but he says he belongs to only one.

Mr Fahad's handicraft trader father has a six-room house in Srinagar but each winter they migrate to this four-room rented apartment in Delhi's Lajpat Nagar, a neighbourhood which is home to the communities of Kashmiris, Afghans amongst others. Here Mr Fahad has made many 'Indian' friends. Here his older brother is a call centre executive in Gurgaon. But Mr Fahad doesn't think he is an Indian, much less a Delhiwalla, thank you very much.

"I'm Kashmiri and we're different from Indians," he told me one day as we were sitting at Central Park in Connaught Place. "Our life, our food, our language is very different."

"So is that of a Tamilian," I said.

"But our religion, too, is different," argued Mr Fahad, "We're Muslims."

If this unwillingness to embrace Indian identity was built merely on the exclusivity of Islam and Gushtaba, it would have been easy to dismiss Mr Fahad. He would then have been just another angry, confused kid from Srinagar where there's no pub, no disco, no cinema; just mosques, morgues and cemeteries. But Mr Fahad is more nuanced, more multi-layered, more complicated.

His heroes are all Indians. Mahatma Gandhi: "Because he believed in non-violence." Aamir Khan: "Because in Rang De Basanti he sacrificed his life for justice." Arundhati Roy: "Because she speaks truth even if it's bitter."

Mr Fahad has downloaded the entire text of Roy's The God of Small Things onto his MP4. He has seen Rang De Basanti more than 10 times. He marvels at the comfort level in the Delhi Metro. Yes, he likes India. "Mumbai has such fast life, Calcutta has fine old buildings and in Delhi, people are very helpful," he observed.

But sorry, Kashmir is another country.

"My Delhi friends tell me that we Kashmiris think of ourselves as too special when we are just another part of India," he said. "But they don't know what's happening there; they don't know the history."

History, of course, is Kashmir's biggest burden. The first time Mr Fahad felt its weight was when he first lifted a 'martyr's' coffin on his shoulders. He was 12, in VI standard. It was an everyday story: firing in the mohalla, a body, no relatives, no identification paper except a ring with a name: Abrar. "Perhaps he was a Pakistani," Mr Fahad said. "We buried him before midnight."

The last time Mr Fahad stood by Abrar's grave was last year in August when there were again disturbances: calls for the azaadi, rallies, firing, bodies, martyrs. "I'm now used to the feel of coffins," said Mr Fahad. "I know they would keep coming till Kashmir gets freedom."

If this lad just wants azaadi from India, then why come to Delhi each year? "Did the Indians stop going to England when they were under the British rule?," Mr Fahad shot back.

The glitz of Delhi is no match for this young man's bitterness. The horrors of home are too overwhelming. Not for Mr Fahad a blue-chip job and a life in the world of malls, multiplexes and suburbs. "More than a lakh people have died in my country and each of them must have three or four grieving relatives left behind," he said. "I want to do something to make their lives better."

Do such career ambitions coming out from a pimpled teenager hint that India's newly acquired soft power has failed to impress the Kashmiri youth? Will no allowances be made for the fact that an unprecedented 62 per cent of the electorate participated in the assembly elections of December, 2008? Will no chance be given to the cheery charisma and movie-star looks of the state's new chief minister?

"People voted for roads and drains in the assembly elections," confessed Mr Fahad. "But we still want azaadi from India. We also want peace."

On September, 2008, when Mr Fahad turned 18, he had immediately applied for a voter's I-card, not out of a sudden love for India but because "Indian authorities ask for it everywhere." Else, this I-card has no value.

For, like his parents, Mr Fahad, too, has no plans to vote in the national elections scheduled later this year. "My vote won't make a difference," he remarked. "Come to Kashmir and you'll see yourself that India is no democracy."

Mr Fahad plans to apply for a graduation course in Delhi University this year.

You may also like to read:
Maximum City – Being Indian in the Indian Capital
A lady from Northeast India is called 'chinky noodle' in Delhi.

Friday, February 20, 2009

Dateline Delhi – Slipper Thrown At Arundhadti Roy, Auctioned Off at Jantar Mantar

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Arundhati Roy Sighting

Sign of the times.

[Text as published in a Delhi newspaper; picture by Mayank Austen Soofi]

When Arundhati Roy visited the Delhi University campus on February 13, she was greeted with a slipper thrown by student group Youth Unity for Vibrant Action (YUVA).

The slipper was auctioned for Rs 101, 000 at Jantar Mantar five days later.

"When Arundhati Roy came to our campus, a member named Asif Kumar threw his slipper at her to protest her statement that Kashmir should be given to Pakistan. Her statement is against our national interest," said Jairam Pandey, national convenor, YUVA.

The slipper was bought by businessman Amitabh Kumar. "I was in Connaught Place for a meeting, when I went for a walk to Jantar Mantar after lunch. There I saw a demonstration by YUVA activists, who were auctioning the slipper," he said.

"I feel she is a traitor to our nation, so despite the steep price, I bought the slipper thrown at her. I am now going to go on eBay and auction it off. Even if I do not recover the money, I do not care, as it was done for the pride of my nation," he added.

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

The New Dalit – Sanjay Salwan, Valmiki Sadan

The Delhi walla's pretension in writing makes me want to lodge a bullet in his balls - Blogger Nimpipi, the woodchuck chucks
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The New Dalit – Sanjay Salwan, Valmiki Sadan

He wants to be the world's best saxophone player.

[Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi]

His father is a sweeper. His grandfather was also a sweeper. His great-grand father too, was a sweeper. But he wants to be the world's best saxophone player.

"When my mind is filled with tension, I play my saxophone and I feel fresh," says Mr Sanjay Salwan, a 21-year-old school dropout Dalit who lives in Delhi's Valmiki Sadan, popularly known as Dalit Colony. (This story is first of a five-part series – The New Dalit, The Changing World of Delhi's 'Untouchables'.)

However, to be one of the best players, one needs hours of practice and that's not possible in a two-room flat shared by seven family members. But you can always trust an artist to find his space.

Each day Mr Salwan walks up to the edge of the colony, climbs the dump yard and walks over to his secret hideout — Bhooli Bhatiyari Park, a garden with overgrown grass and unwieldy trees. There, in the company of birds and stray dogs, Mr Salwan plays ragas.

"I used to help papa sweep a Connaught Place block next to Plaza Theatre," says Mr Salwan. "But it was a ganda job and I stopped it once I learnt how to play the saxophone." Dad doesn't mind. "Each night papa repeats the same thing — padai karo, padai karo, padai karo."

The family was initially unsettled when the son took up the instrument but now dad advises that "if it has to be music, I should do it with full lagan." Even if it comes at a high price. In 2008 Mr Salwan decided that he needed an imported saxophone that cost a bomb — Rs 50, 000. After it became clear that whatever the boy had made by playing in clubs and hotels was not enough, the family pitched in with the rest of the amount.

Once bought, the 'Made-In-USA' saxophone was taken to a Hanuman mandir in nearby Paharganj, blessed by the priest, and now everyone hopes that this brass instrument lifts the boy high in the world.

Taken out of its velvet case, unwrapped from the white silken cloth, the sax is beautiful to look at. Under the glint of the afternoon sunlight, its golden trumpet twinkles, just like Mayawati's birthday jewels. Mayawati is India's most popular Dalit leader, often disdained in upper caste Delhi living rooms as a corrupt politician.

"I love Mayawati and like to see her in nice clothes and costly jewellery," says Mr Salwan. He doesn't object to what some call Mayawati's ostentatious display of wealth. "She is one of us," he says. "I hate the word 'Dalit', which signifies something low, and Mayawati, unlike other netas, says 'apne log', never 'Dalit log'."

However, politics is not a major concern for our sax player. Mr Salwan has more urgent priorities. "I want to play like Kenny G," he says. "And I'm working on it."

At Bhooli Bhatiyari Park

The New Dalit – Sanjay Salwan, Valmiki Sadan

Play on, Sir

The New Dalit – Sanjay Salwan, Valmiki Sadan

Solitude... well, almost

The New Dalit – Sanjay Salwan, Valmiki Sadan

On the rooftop

The New Dalit – Sanjay Salwan, Valmiki Sadan

Look here, please

Barack Special – What’s Obama to Me?

In the Children's Park

The New Dalit – Sanjay Salwan, Valmiki Sadan

Back to Bhooli Bhatiyari

The New Dalit – Sanjay Salwan, Valmiki Sadan

Good luck, Mr Salwan

Musical Dawn

You may also like to read:
The New Dalit - Neeta Vaid, Valmiki Sadan
She wants other people to bow before her

The New Dalit - Praveen Parcha, Valmiki Sadan
He is against job reservations for Dalits

Monday, February 16, 2009

Feature – My Dad's Bookshop, My Dad's Customers

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This is that bookshop

An insider's gossip on Delhi's most eclectic bookstore.

[Text by Jairaj Singh; picture by Mayank Austen Soofi]

The author whose father runs this little bookshop, tucked somewhere in south Delhi, doesn't wish the store to be named. Shh, here's a hint: His father has been profiled by The Delhi Walla.

When I was in school a classmate once asked me what my father did for a living. I told him he worked in a bookshop. ‘Oh,’ he said. ‘Can he afford to send you to school? All that stationary and textbook stuff must amount to a pittance.’ It was clear to me that my classmate had never seen the inside of a bookshop, and would probably never need to, so I laughed and let it be. But it made me think: Do people read? But surely they did? After all, it was true that my father could afford to send me to a private school

When I left school, I encountered two kinds of reactions when I told people that my father owned a bookshop. One sort would bluntly ask if they would get a discount the next time they went visiting. The second—and this was the slightly older lot—would orgasm on the idea: ‘Oh, how lovely. Imagine sitting in a bookshop and reading all you want!’

I couldn’t tell the first group that it wasn’t my business to get them a discount; nor could I break the hearts of the second by telling them that their idea of owning a bookshop was as romantic as reading a book on a date. (I did that once. The book wasn’t the only thing that ended.) But these reactions did seem to suggest that people wanted to read. Which is, all told, a good thing—it pays. In my case, literally.

To understand life in a bookstore, or rather how people behave in a bookstore, you have to understand my father first. My father, over the years, has become a quieter man. There are days when he can even be alarmingly gentle. He has been sitting on one squeaky chair for a bit longer than two decades, manning the place all by himself, with occasional help from an uncle. He knows his books because he handpicks them. Sometimes he has to put them on the floor because they don’t fit on the bookshelves. It’s a very small store.

He looks tired most of the time, my father. Sometimes even a bit broken— when India plays the cricket world cup, for instance, and sales hit an iceberg. On such days, he will do unpredictable things, and you could be forgiven for calling him eccentric, as one blogger did after he was denied a discount and told to handle the books with care. The blogger went on to blame my father for hindering his literary ambitions. As far as I know, looking is never a problem. But you really can’t expect the store-owner to always smile as he watches you break the spine of his books—especially if he has grown up reading and studying science.

For a huge number of people the bookshop is not ideally their restroom of learning, but a place where they contest it. The brighter ones scrape through, but not before they have made absolute fools of themselves in front of a silent, bespectacled spectator—the bookseller.

A good number of frighteningly sophisticated people will come to the shop wanting to know only the latest bestseller list. I suppose it works well on the late-evening cocktail-party circuit when an intellectual discussion begins and all the collar-buttons unbutton. One of the hottest bestsellers that the bookstore has never sold a single copy of is Salman Rushdie’s fatwa-ridden Satanic Verses. Over the years, despite its damned and banned content, people continue to check if the book can be ordered or found. There’s a lady who has been doing this once every two years since she was first told it wasn’t possible, in 1989. She looks disappointed each time. Requests for books have also got vaguer over the years and perhaps less amusing.

‘Would you have Arundhati Roy’s other novel?’ a customer asks.

‘I am afraid we aren’t aware of another novel.’

‘Look, are you sure?’

‘Yes sir. Unless you meant another published work of hers?’

‘I know my books well. It’s a rare book and I’ve seen it in better shops than yours.’

‘Okay, if you ever spot it again, do let us know.’

Sometimes people come in not knowing the name of the book—which is understandable. But then they offer clues like, ‘it’s a big black book’, or ‘it’s a picture book’, or ‘the writer is in the Bush administration’, or ‘we read the review last Sunday,’ or even ‘he comes on television a lot, you know’.

In summer, the book-business pundits will tell you, every cultured resident of Delhi who reads, or at least buys, books migrates to cooler places. In the air- conditioned bookstore that sits across a movie hall, however, there is no respite.

All sorts of people enter it, usually in a group, simply to escape the heat while they wait for the booking office to open. It is easy to spot such a group – they walk in discussing some completely unliterary subject. Most turn their backs on the pay counter straightaway, but occasionally one of them might pull out a book in order to pretend interest. Someone from the group will then feel impelled to disclose how he or she felt ‘spiritually uplifted’ after reading a particular book. The book must then be brought down from the shelf.

‘Oh it’s a must read. I love books. It’s a wonder I don’t need glasses yet…’

The cover of the book in hand is scrutinized for a good four seconds, then an involuntary thumb flips through all the leaves of the book. After this has been done thrice or more, the price is finally asked. ‘Oh that’s just too expensive,’ is the usual response and the book is jammed back into its original place after a few unsuccessful attempts, damaging the cover in the process. The group now flits from one section to another till the wait is over: through the glass door they’ve been keeping track of when the queue starts forming outside the cinema hall.

Sometimes people spend hours in a bookshop just hanging around, waiting for someone to ask for a book, which is a cue for them to voice their opinion of the book before resuming their endless and usually futile book search. They are the aimless, forgotten professorial sorts, ready to demonstrate great enthusiasm about rediscovering forgotten paragraphs in books they read a long time ago.

They can turn nasty when you ask them what exactly they are looking for, even though they have been through every shelf in the shop over and over again. On an average day it is surprising how many flustered-looking aunts walk in and want to find a book for their thirteen-year-old nieces. They will spend many minutes talking about the prodigy’s extroverted nature, her love of dance and her top rank in class. They will then want suggestions on which book they should pick up as a birthday present. Fortunately, this isn’t a tough call in our Harry Potter times.

Sometimes fellows just barge in—and you don’t even have to look up to decide if they are potential customers, you can tell what they are like by just hearing them. They will want to know if you have books on computer engineering or books on business strategies and sometimes even on aerodynamics and horse breeding. You can’t always tell that they aren’t potential buyers, of course, but most are just passers-by who feel like dropping in and saying, ‘Hey everyone, I have a hobby.’

Then there are those who will want to browse through all the self-help titles and fill their collection. Some are very persistent; they have long lists of titles recommended by their mentors. On rough days they are eventually pointed to the philosophy section so they can sort themselves out.

Once a strange bloke came rushing in to ask my father where he bought the shirt he was wearing. My father said he had bought it in a store that was next to the nearby burger outlet. The man rushed out at the same speed. Everyone in the shop looked nonplussed; I heard my father mumble that he had bought the shirt some ten years ago.

As opposed to a shoe shop or a hardware store, the owner and the staff of a bookstore need heavy-duty negotiating and people skills to deal with the number of people coming in with strange requests. It isn’t easy telling a customer repeatedly that he can’t exchange books after keeping them at home for a week, or that books can’t be offered at fifty per cent discount during Diwali week or free on World Literacy Day. Such customers are tough, they will plead, argue, whine, shout and sometimes even pick a fight.

A few months back, a well-known actress came to the shop and wanted to pick up a pile of books for charity. After she had collected a whole lot, she got into an argument over how she should get them free because she was doing it for a good cause. She even reminded everyone who she was. People hoped she was kidding.

I suppose a bookshop is a great place to be spotted in if you are a celebrity. It’s good to be remembered, and to remind the everyday world that not only are you a person of beauty, fame and wealth but that you are also staggeringly intellectual. Many famous types walk in, throwing their voice as well as their weight around so that everyone notices. Then they will pretend bafflement at being noticed and gaped at. Thereafter they will try to beat a lucky gaper at an eye duel.

Touché! Once the gaper looks suitably embarrassed and defeated, they will smile. This done, they will talk about their favourite authors and books, expecting the owner and staff to be awestruck and produce piles of books for them. Nine times out of ten the rich and famous end up buying nothing.

So: do people read? I still don’t know. When someone asks, expecting me to know—because my father owns a bookshop, you see—I say yes, of course, people read. That’s a bit of fact, a bit of fiction.

[This piece had earlier appeared in First Proof: The Penguin Book of New Writing 4]

Saturday, February 14, 2009

Valentine's Day 2009 – The Lover Boy of Nizamuddin Basti

The Delhi walla's pretension in writing makes me want to lodge a bullet in his balls - Blogger Nimpipi, the woodchuck chucks
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Valentine’s Day 2009 – The Lover Boy of Nizamuddin Basti

This butcher has a lamb's heart.

[Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi]

Mr Feroze Qureshi, 23, works as a butcher in Nizamuddin Basti, hangs out at PVR Saket, drinks Rum, never misses his namaaz and is presently recovering from a broken heart.

His family is one of the oldest in Nizamuddin Basti which itself happens to be one of the oldest settlements of Delhi. But that wasn't the USP for the girl who fell in love with him around two years ago.

Mr Qureshi was at the 3C’s mall in Lajpat Nagar when Shikha, a student at Dayal Singh College, spotted him with his gang of Basti buddies. His sparkling eyes, muscular arms, bashful smiles won her heart. Bold and bindaas, Shikha approached Mr Qureshi, exchanged phone numbers and the romance started.

Once when her folks were out of town, Shikha invited Mr Qureshi to her house in Lajpat Nagar where they kissed in the darkness of her father's medical clinic. "It was my life's first kiss," says Mr Qureshi.

The puppy love became more regular. They would go to malls, multiplexes and McDonald's. Nothing would come between the lovers. So what if Mr Qureshi was a school-dropout and a Muslim while Shikha was a graduate student and a Hindu. The couple cared a hoot for their different family backgrounds. Shikha was the pampered child of a wealthy doctor. Mr Qureshi was the eldest son of a man who had died of drug overdose.

One day they went to a friend's flat in CR Park and had sex. "We crossed all limits," says Mr Qureshi.

The love went on. Meantime the jobless Mr Quershi got a day job in a butcher's stall and his life streamed into a rhythm. During the day, he would cut goat's meat. In the evening, he would take a shower, slip into jeans-t-shirt, spray a deo and meet his girlfriend.

One freezing evening, during the dying days of 2008, when they met outside Priya cinema, Shikha declared it would be their last meeting. She said she has her parents to think of. "I was shattered," says Mr Qureshi. "I asked her where were her parents when she first eyed me at 3C's."

Mr Quershi cajoled, pleaded, cried. But it was over from Shikha's side. Her 'ex' sank into depression. Mr Qureshi would reach home late in the night: his eyes always red, his steps always faltering, his breathe always stinking of booze.

"Shikha wanted to possess me but I loved her with all my soul," complains Mr Qureshi. "Once she got me, her interest waned."

Mr Qureshi's mother, unaware of her son's private grief, warned that his drunkenness could risk the matrimonial possibilities of his two sisters. That consideration and a mother's strict control gradually steered off Mr Qureshi from the path to abyss.

Of course, Mr Qureshi still drinks and still has Shikha's picture saved on his Chinese mobile but he has again started living. A few days ago he sms-ed a Basti girl. She replied back. They met in the courtyard of Urs Mahal, behind Ghalib's tomb, and kissed. The girl's name is Saara.

Happy Valentine's Day.

The lover boy

Valentine’s Day 2009 – The Lover Boy of Nizamuddin Basti

Shikha or Saara?

Valentine’s Day 2009 – The Lover Boy of Nizamuddin Basti

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Around Town – Kareena Kapoor Sighting

The Delhi walla's pretension in writing makes me want to lodge a bullet in his balls - Blogger Nimpipi, the woodchuck chucks
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Kareena Kapoor Sighting

The Bombay star was in Connaught Place.

[Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi]

Kareena, my kudi, my karisma, my chameli. She was plain Geet in Jab We Met, Pooh in Kabhi Khushi Kabhie Gham but in my Dilli she was just Bebo.

Aaj first time itne near se dekha. Film shoot was on. Spotted on the front seat of a red car at Connaught Place's F-Block, opposite Qba, she looked just as she looks on screen – sexy. That didn't stop one powdered lady from sneering, "Kareena has put on so much makeup." Immediately one Delhi man shouted back, "Else she would look like you."

Sadly Kareena wasn't alone. There was a driver - Saif Ali Khan.

How much I wanted to be in Saif's place, to be near my Kareena but never trust the star-stuck Dilli crowd. Yet don't be harsh on this poor city. After all, we are not Bombay-wallas; we are not used to seeing Bollywood stars; we only have colourless politicians for entertainment. So it's OK if we were not in our best behavior.

I too did the usual dhakka-mukki – pushed, shoved, cursed, jostled - but naheenji, Kareena was too near, yet too far. And then the lathi-wielding thullas increased the blood pressure by teasing, "Haa, haan, ab utar ke naachenge yeh dono tere liye." And presto, someone shouted that Kareena and Saif would do a dance number.

"Mazaa aa jayenga," an uncle-next-door said.

Our heartbeats started thumping faster. Imagine Kareena thumka-ing in CP! The crowd went quiet. The director said ACTION... our collective heartbeat stopped... Saif started the car, drove straight, did a reverse gear, turned left on the Inner Circle road... and didn't come back!

The shoot was over.

Where's Kareena?

Kareena Kapoor Sighting

Saif!

Kareena Kapoor Sighting

Kareena!

Kareena Kapoor Sighting

Closer look

Kareena Kapoor Sighting

Hello Saif

Kareena Kapoor Sighting

Paisa-vasool scenes

Kareena Kapoor Sighting

Saifeena

Kareena Kapoor Sighting

Oye Kareena

Kareena Kapoor Sighting

Show over

Kareena Kapoor Sighting

Monday, February 09, 2009

Photo Essay – Purani Dilli on a High

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Purani Dilli on a High

Allah is closer to Old Delhi rooftops.

[Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi]

One afternoon I went knocking around houses at Matia Mahal in Old Delhi asking the residents, "May I please climb to your rooftop?" I was refused. Folks thought I was crazy. But I had my reason. I wanted to see how Jama Masjid looks from rooftops.

While thak-thaking around, I met a paan-walla who claimed that his terrace faced Jama Masjid's Gate no. 1. Bingo. We became fast friends and after discussing girls, sex and politics, I asked him, "Can I see Dilli from your terrace?"

The guy grew somber. He had women in the house and I was a man.

I walked ahead hoping to find a women-less home.

Finally I met Mr Uzair Ahmad. Within five minutes I knew everything about him: studying at Daryaganj's Somerville School; mad about Shah Rukh Khan; 'happy birthday' on June 7th; and his favorite dish – ammi's masala dosa. Now the real thing: Mr Ahmad's chhat (rooftop) is the highest in Old Delhi.

Obviously, he became my latest best friend.

Mr Ahmad was nice. He invited me in, took me up in an in-house elevator(!), and there we were: at Old Delhi's top-altitude terrace.

Mashallah, Kya scene tha!

The world was below us. A few terraces away stood the stony Jama Masjid, looking lonely amidt the concrete of Delhi's unplanned modern architecture. Beyond it the golden dome of Gurdwara Seesganj. On the right, Red Fort. Backside: the Connaught Place skyscrapers. Down: Old Delhi people carrying on with domestic lives in their courtyards.

I got distracted by the last.

My naked eyes watched the purdah women of these courtyards. A veiled lady who was kneeling down by her balcony darted inside the instant she spotted me. While a few chhats away, a kabutar-baaz (the pigeon man) went on hurrrruuuing his pigeons. The kabutars would flutter their wings, fly away, soar up in the sky, and come back on the kabutar-baaz's roof. In silence.

Pity Mr Ahmad. He had spent all his life in this house and so was immune to its rooftop views. Instead of swooning like me, he cried out to his friends - Sameer and Gullu. They were sunbathing on a lower rooftop. On another terrace, Mr Ahmad's cousins continued flying their kites. In silence.

It was all so otherworldly, like being in a Himalayan hill resort. The city noise had faded to a distant hum. The air had grown thinner, cooler. And Jama Masjid was just an arm-length's away. Almost.

Yes, Allah is closer to Old Delhi rooftops.

Not long after we came down. Back where we belonged. A little further from the God.

You may also enjoy such views Just tap-tap on doors and request to be escorted to the rooftop. Be patient. Someone will agree.

Rooftop paradise, with Mr Ahmad

Purani Dilli on a High

Jama Masjid!

Purani Dilli on a High

So close!

Purani Dilli on a High

Sameer and Gullu, Mr Ahmad's friends

Purani Dilli on a High

Dilli's kite runner?

Purani Dilli on a High

City getaway

Purani Dilli on a High

Hello birdies

Purani Dilli on a High

Our kabutar-baaz

Purani Dilli on a High

Can you spot Seesganj?

Purani Dilli on a High

Leave her alone

Purani Dilli on a High

Saturday, February 07, 2009

Special Series - The New Dalit

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The New Dalits

The changing world of Delhi’s 'untouchables'.

[Text and picture by Mayank Austen Soofi]

A churning is taking place in Delhi's Valmiki Sadan, a landmark of India's freedom struggle. Home to a Valmiki temple, it is an 'untouchable' Dalit settlement where Mahatma Gandhi had stayed from March, 1946 to June, 1947.

Valmiki Sadan is also known as Dalit Colony or just the Basti. It lies on Mandir Marg, near Gole Market, a very appropriately named avenue. The stretch here is lined with several houses of worship - Birla Mandir, Kali Mandir, Arya Samaj Mandir, St. Thomas' Church and of course, Valmiki Mandir.

That why there's a Valmiki Temple and not a Ram, Shiva or Krishna temple makes for a revealing story. "Since our ancestors weren't allowed to pray to Lord Rama because of our low caste," said a resident of the Dalit Colony, "we decided to worship the man (Valmiki the sage) who wrote the story of Lord Ram's life."

Many great people have tried to get rid India of its caste stigma. No one has succeeded so far. In fact, Gandhi had pointedly chosen this place so as to live along side the Dalits, the 'untouchables'. The small room where he lived - now immortalised with a writing table, inkpot and charkha, hosted crucial meetings of the Congress. It was visited by that era’s who’s who - Jawaharlal Nehru, Lady Mountbatten, Rajkumari Amrit Kaur, Sir Stafford Cripps.

During those times, Valmiki Sadan was a place of mud huts whose residents worked as sweepers. Today there are 2-room flats, a paved road, a Mother Dairy booth and a park complete with seesaws and swings.

However, the residents, employed in New Delhi Municipality Corporation (NDMC), are still doing the same old jobs. They are sweepers and rat catchers.

This may change. The great-grand children of those who brushed their shoulders with Gandhi, are no longer meekly taking up their parents' professions. They may also not necessarily look upon the politicians their fathers patronise. The aspirations and icons of this new generation are different. And yet these young people have the baggage of their caste identity to deal with. That is, sadly, not disappearing anytime soon.

Early in 2009, I spent a large amount of time talking to five young Dalits, both boys and girls, at Valmidki Sadan. We discussed their parents, passions, dreams and, yes, their caste. Through these conversations, I tried to look through their life and find out how the Dalit world is changing.

Of course, a few cannot speak for the millions (around 15 per cent of India's population is Dalit). The people of Valmiki Sadan are lucky. They live in the heart of the Capital and so are the crème a la crème of India’s 'untouchables'. But for exactly that reason their stories are important. After all, what happens in Delhi today is reflected in the country tomorrow.

Click on the following links:
The New Dalit – Sanjay Salwan, Valmiki Sadan
He wants to be the world's best saxophone player

The New Dalit - Neeta Vaid, Valmiki Sadan
She wants other people to bow before her

The New Dalit - Praveen Parcha, Valmiki Sadan
He is against job reservations for Dalits

Thursday, February 05, 2009

Capital Guest - Daniyal Mueenuddin, Pakistani Author

The Delhi walla's pretension in writing makes me want to lodge a bullet in his balls - Blogger Nimpipi, the woodchuck chucks
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Daniyal Mueenuddin, Pakistani Author

Hanging out in Lodhi Garden.

[Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi]

It's cool to buy a farm in the south of France and write a book or two. But in the south of Punjab? Pakistani Punjab? Say salam alaikum to Daniyal Mueenuddin.

The new star of Pakistan's literal scene came visiting the Indian capital early in 2008. He was pampered big time by Random House India, his publishers. And why not? The guy's fiction has been published not once, not twice, but thrice in The New Yorker magazine.

I got to meet Daniyal in Lodhi Garden the day John Updike died. We lay down on a grassy slope, watched the smooching-groping lovers, smoked imported suttas and talked Chekhov, Tolstoy, Rushdie and The New Yorker (of course!).

"Why, Delhi has almost become a second world city," Daniyal, who returned to the town after two decades, cried. "It's like Bulgaria on a steroid."

[Is that's a compliment?]

Brought up in Lahore and Massachusetts, Daniyal is no easy job for a professional profiler. Look at his life: a former lawyer, a sometime poet, a full-time farm owner, a short story writer... and now working on a novel.

Then there's the mess of his 'mixed-blood' heritage.

He is half-Pakistani, half-American and yet he's no Jhumpa Lahiri. "Daniyal's writing isn't soaking wet with migration, rootlessness, racism, nostalgia, longing and blah-blah," reported a friend who has read his stories.

This could be because Lahiri was not lucky enough to inherit a mango orchard from her dad in the Bengal countryside. Daniyal did in his native Punjab. But don't imagine our published-in-The-New-Yorker writer dirtying his hands in the muddy soil. Daniyal is a Tolstoy lover but he's no tilling-my-own-land Pierre of Anna Karenina. That's a job for the peasants.

Curious still, despite being a Pakistani landlord, Daniyal is no feudal lord. No palace, no harem, and just one cook. He lives in a 2-room book-lined house with his Economist-reading Norwegian wife. While the Lodhi Garden rendezvous was too short for making instant judgments, it was tough romanticising him as a macho man with kalshnikovs and mistresses.

Guarding over a firang wife must be a task in itself.

As per the CNN version of a West-hating, mujhahidin-infested Pakistan, each new morning his foren wife wakes up alive must be considered a blessing. "It's not like that," laughed Daniyal. "When she goes to the bazaar, nobody throws a second look at her."

Unbelievable. Danyal's wife is attractive and I was busy surveying her when he was not watching me. Even then the husband's bazaar claims must be accepted. The village's comfort level with gori chamri perhaps dates back to Daniyal's American mother who now lives with her second husband in NYC.

Yet, a village is a village. Just how do a James Joyce reading man and his European wife cope there?

"We have a power generator, an Internet connection and we get bottled water from the bazaar," said Daniyal. "Sometimes we camp overnight in the Sindhi desert; sometimes when friends are to visit from Islamabad, we ask them to bring a good pack of brown bread and cheeses."

The rest is detail: waking up around 6 am, writing the novel, running the farm, dealing with subordinates, dinner with wife, and yes, reading The New Yorker on net. Reminded of which, I informed Danyal that Khan Market is just across the Lodhi Garden. "As long as you're in Delhi, you don't have to go on-line for The New Yorker," I said. "You can get the latest copy from Bahrisons."

[Daniyal Mueenuddin's collection of short stories is collected in a volume titled In Other Rooms, Other Wonders. Click here to reach his website.]

Lit talk

Daniyal Mueenuddin, Pakistani Author

Thinking the plot?

Daniyal Mueenuddin, Pakistani Author

Pretty wife

Pretty Woman

See you in The New Yorker

Daniyal Mueenuddin, Pakistani Author