Friday, January 29, 2010

Mission Delhi – Rakesh Chandra, Connaught Place

The Delhi walla's pretension in writing makes me want to lodge a bullet in his balls - Blogger Nimpipi, the woodchuck chucks
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Care for a Book?

One of the one per cent in 13 million.

[Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi]

With a cloth tied to the end of a wooden rod, the bookseller is busy cleaning the shelves – “wooshaaaacck” goes his duster. Puffs of dust rise all around The Delhi Walla. “We have to do it every morning,” says Rakesh Chandra of the New Book Depot, Connaught Place. “Otherwise, you won’t be able to touch the books. It gets so dusty.”

Mr Chandra has eight people on his staff, but every morning, he leads the battle against the Delhi dust. Finicky about his books, he occasionally gets into tiffs with customers who show no respect for the bound volumes. “There are a few who do not hesitate to put a piece of paper on a book and write on it, without realising that this will leave an impression on the book cover,” he says. “When I object, sometimes they are mortified and apologise, and sometimes they say, ‘Who do you think we are?’”

With an accent that is more British than that of the British, this 54-year-old gent says, “Yes, I’m eccentric and I think it’s a good thing.”

Mr Chandra belongs to that dying breed of booksellers who are in the trade for the love of books. A reader of “light fiction” such as novels by Robert Ludlum, Fredrick Forsyth, John Grisham, Dan Brown and Dick Francis, his bungalow in Jorbagh, one of Delhi’s most upper crust neighbourhoods, is filled with books. “There is an actual relationship between books and me.” This passion, he insists, was what made him join the business, not because the shop belonged to his father.

On December 1, 1946, lawyer Kuldip Chandra bought New Book Depot from a French couple, who had started it in 1925. Taking me upstairs to his office, which was once the living quarter of the previous owners, Mr Chandra says, “After graduation from SRCC (Sri Ram College of Commerce), I joined father in 1976. He died next year. Since then, I’m managing it alone.”

Sitting down on a large leather chair that faces the portrait of his father, Mr Chandra looks down from the open office into the floor below. His son, Uddhav, is sitting on his chair – handling customers, dealing with the cash. As we talk, the son occasionally shouts up to Mr Chandra for author enquiries. “I had chosen my son’s name with much care,” he says. “While researching, I discovered that Uddhav was the one person besides Arjun to whom Krishna had narrated Bhagwad Gita.”

Although Uddhav has started spending time in the bookstore, the father says, “At the moment, he is confused. To force something on him that he may not like doing may end in a… clash of civilisations.”

It is difficult to imagine the changes that the next inheritor will bring to this bookshop. Mr Chandra has retained its old-world charm of low-hanging fans, high ceiling, rosewood shelves and rickety wooden stairs. “Against the pressure to make the layout what is called sleeker and shinier, I have preserved the old look with zeal,” he says.

Of course, he can’t do much about the changing profile of customers. They have grown younger. Mostly college students on romantic dates, they commute by the Metro, get off at Rajiv Chowk (the Metro stop for Connaught Place), pick up a coffee or a patty and walk into the bookshop. “Sometimes I find chewing gum stuck on the floor. It never happened before.”

Similar is the case with Connaught Place. “The quality of people coming here has gone down,” Mr Chandra says. “Look… look at that hinjra,” he says, pointing to a eunuch harassing a shopper just outside his shop window. “Then there are beggars who are so aggressive.”

However, a bigger threat could be the advent of e-books. Once he would sell five sets of Encyclopaedia Britannica, costing Rs 45,000 each, every year, but now thanks to the Internet, he stocks none. “The other day, I was reading a newspaper article on Google’s e-library, then there is Kindle,” says Chandra referring to the electronic book device. “But while the Internet will remain a source of information, nothing will replace the printed word.”

Lifting a phone directory (which itself is becoming extinct), the booksellers says, “The ability to browse, handle and smell the book is possible only in a brick-and-mortar bookstore.”

The collection in the New Book Depot is entirely made up of Mr Chandra’s personal choice. It makes for a high-brow browsing. Nietzsche, Rabelais, John Ruskin, Li Po, John Updike, Saul Bellow, Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin and Jean-Paul Sartre. For balance, there are all the Ian Flemings.

“We have only four real bookshops in Delhi,” Mr Chandra says. “Bahrisons Booksellers in Khan Market, The Book Shop in Jor Bagh, Fact & Fiction in Basant Lok and mine.” To retain the sanctity of the New Book Depot, he is considering drafting a set of rules for customers. “It will be something like the Ten Commandments,” he says. “No phone chat, no coffee, no bags, no eating…” Just then, Mr Chandra’s son interrupts him from the ground floor. “Dad, do we have Spanish language authors?” The father shoots back, “Yes, Garcia Marquez, Isabel Allende, Pablo Neruda, Mario Vargas Llosa.”

[This is the ninth portrait of the Mission Delhi project]

Proud of his collection

Mission Delhi – Rakesh Chandra, Connaught Place

Busy dusting

Mission Delhi – Rakesh Chandra, Connaught Place

Son and father

Mission Delhi – Rakesh Chandra, Connaught Place

Upstairs (Mr Chandra's profile is shielding off his father's portrait)

Mission Delhi – Rakesh Chandra, Connaught Place

Assisting a customer

Mission Delhi – Rakesh Chandra, Connaught Place

The son, too, is assisting a customer

Mission Delhi – Rakesh Chandra, Connaught Place

Mr Chandra's fiefdom

Mission Delhi – Rakesh Chandra, Connaught Place

Take care, Mr Chandra

Mission Delhi – Rakesh Chandra, Connaught Place


Anonymous said...

I have gone to his store. Great collection, but he struck me as a little.... odd (perhaps it was the accent). I hope they never close the shop.

kb said...

By far, the best book shop: great selection and volumes always in very fine condition. Thank you, Mr Chandra.

zeevie said...

old charm of CP

mystic darvesh said...

You didn't like Mr.chopra....

I can smell that..

Anonymous said...

Love your bookshop photos. See you at the Bookfair tomorrow!


Anonymous said...

i have enjoyed chatting with the older chandra many times. quite extraordinarily knowledgeable. GREAT!

AJ said...

His book store is great and yes one of the great old bookstores left .He definitely knows his books its always a pleasure talkin to him about his love and passion for them.

Sharik Verma said...

He should writ up do's and not to do's at the front door so that people can choose if to enter and not to enter...sometimes he shows less respect to younger group...I think Galgotia's book shop right beside his store also has a good collection though a litle dusty...

Nosh said...

well i think if any one had true respect for books then they would not need a list of do's and don't's. they would know not to do anything that would warrant his disrespect. i've been going to the shop for ages and know that he shows great interest and respect towards everyone who shows him and his books the same. i think that's only fair. these books are not maintained so beautifully by letting people disrespect them. it's a great and comprehensive collection and he knows each book by name and author and publisher in his mind. that shows commitment to be respected. the books that i find here, i find hard to locate anywhere else. so I'm all for this amazing bookshop and wish it all the best!!

Anonymous said...

I remember visiting this store among the other few Delhi book stores - on several occasions over the years. Just a suggestion to the son: it wasn't a book shop i enjoyed going to...i never felt welcome. Particularly as I was a teenager (10 years ago) i had the feeling that I was being judged for whether i had any money or if i would buy anything.

Later going to the book stores in the U.S. was such a change...that i could be left alone - without being asked what I wanted, and i could read a book in the store for as long as i wanted.

So, dear Jr. -- i hope you'll learn to trust your customers. Cant blame the rest of the and the internet always you know!
I am a well wisher - but now readers know they deserve a better browsing/book buying experience. And theres no monopoly like earlier! And thank the Trimurti for that!