Wednesday, April 28, 2010

City Food – Lassi, Chandni Chowk

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The cool yoghurt drink.

[Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi]

Delhi has no copyright over the sweet-tart lassi. The cool, creamy, frothy yoghurt drink is delicious nourishment across India, especially during the summer. It is simple to make - whip in yoghurt with sugar and it is done. Add malai (clotted cream), it is heavy. Throw in some ice, it becomes light.

Highway eateries in Punjab are said to prepare great quantities of lassi by whisking yogurt in washing machines! For the most memorable lassi experience in Delhi, go to the tail end of 17th century Chandni Chowk bazaar in Old Delhi. Two lassi joints – Amritsari Lassiwalla (circa 1974) and Meghraj (since 1900) – stand across the red gateway of Fatehpuri Masjid.

Meghraj’s lassi comes without any trappings. A mix of yoghurt, sugar and nothing else, the lassi is so thick with malai that it is served with a spoon. The adjacent Amritsari lassi stall has an equally fulfilling option, but in a variety of flavours – mango, rose, banana, saffron, cumin, often garnished with chopped almonds.

Of course, such drinks are served in expensive south Delhi restaurants also, but the settings there are too sanitised. In Chandni Chowk, as you take the sip, the chilled milky relief of the lassi calms the tired nerves that inevitably come with an excursion to the Walled City. And the sights and sounds of Fatehpuri Masjid’s crowded T-junction – one lane going to Khari Baoli, the other to Lal Kuan and the third to Red Fort – is forever preserved along with the memory of the sweet tanginess of the lassi you are sipping. Later all that you will need to evoke Old Delhi in your mind’s eye will be the remembered taste of that yoghurt drink.

Sweet 'n' cool

Sweet 'n' Cool

Sense of the Place, Fatehpuri intersection

Sense of the Place

That's Amritsari Lassiwalla

City Food – Lassi, Chandni Chowk

Meghraj's simple lassi

City Food – Lassi, Chandni Chowk

Lassi drinkers

City Food – Lassi, Chandni Chowk

Cool comfort

City Food – Lassi, Chandni Chowk

More lassi please

City Food – Lassi, Chandni Chowk


Anonymous said...


kumar v said...

Be ready to sleep whole day thereafter !

Anonymous said...

How to make lassi at home-

Add yogurt and cold water half-and-half to mixie. Add cumin powder and salt. Mix. Serve/drink on the rocks.

Putra Bertam said...

I love Manggo Lasi.................

Vishal said...

eeekksss ............ I luve milk, I love yogurt but lassi I never liked, right form childhood. As strange as it may sound for a Haryana born jat who does not like lassi......... but who cares, you guys enjoy your lassi on the rocks while I sip neat Patiyala peg of 'Doodh'.

MotaBacha said...

oh man....I was right here on this spot while looking for Ghalib's haveli. It was a hot August afternoon and I wish I had known about this lassi waala. Good refreshing post, Mayank.

Anonymous said...

Hi Mayank,

Check this out -

Although in this hot weather, all one wants to eat is chat from the local chatwalla :o)

Anonymous said...

oi vey!!! Lassi/Doogh has to be the cool drink anyday!!! No wonder the Sikh pilgrims in lahore are seen dousing hugggee glasses of this drink every year.
Though I ve to admit that the traditional lassi, at least west/north of the border is 'namkeen' or 'salty'. Sometimes with added mint (doogh). And of course, the sweet variety with the ever-red "Rooh Afza" or 'Jaam-i-Shirin'.

I am neither Delhiite nor Indian, heck I am not even a Punjabi, but your blog has me hooked! Great work!