Friday, January 29, 2010

Mission Delhi – Rakesh Chandra, Connaught Place

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Care for a Book?

One of the one per cent in 13 million.

[Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi]

With a cloth tied to the end of a wooden rod, the bookseller is busy cleaning the shelves – “wooshaaaacck” goes his duster. Puffs of dust rise all around The Delhi Walla. “We have to do it every morning,” says Rakesh Chandra of the New Book Depot, Connaught Place. “Otherwise, you won’t be able to touch the books. It gets so dusty.”

Mr Chandra has eight people on his staff, but every morning, he leads the battle against the Delhi dust. Finicky about his books, he occasionally gets into tiffs with customers who show no respect for the bound volumes. “There are a few who do not hesitate to put a piece of paper on a book and write on it, without realising that this will leave an impression on the book cover,” he says. “When I object, sometimes they are mortified and apologise, and sometimes they say, ‘Who do you think we are?’”

With an accent that is more British than that of the British, this 54-year-old gent says, “Yes, I’m eccentric and I think it’s a good thing.”

Mr Chandra belongs to that dying breed of booksellers who are in the trade for the love of books. A reader of “light fiction” such as novels by Robert Ludlum, Fredrick Forsyth, John Grisham, Dan Brown and Dick Francis, his bungalow in Jorbagh, one of Delhi’s most upper crust neighbourhoods, is filled with books. “There is an actual relationship between books and me.” This passion, he insists, was what made him join the business, not because the shop belonged to his father.

On December 1, 1946, lawyer Kuldip Chandra bought New Book Depot from a French couple, who had started it in 1925. Taking me upstairs to his office, which was once the living quarter of the previous owners, Mr Chandra says, “After graduation from SRCC (Sri Ram College of Commerce), I joined father in 1976. He died next year. Since then, I’m managing it alone.”

Sitting down on a large leather chair that faces the portrait of his father, Mr Chandra looks down from the open office into the floor below. His son, Uddhav, is sitting on his chair – handling customers, dealing with the cash. As we talk, the son occasionally shouts up to Mr Chandra for author enquiries. “I had chosen my son’s name with much care,” he says. “While researching, I discovered that Uddhav was the one person besides Arjun to whom Krishna had narrated Bhagwad Gita.”

Although Uddhav has started spending time in the bookstore, the father says, “At the moment, he is confused. To force something on him that he may not like doing may end in a… clash of civilisations.”

It is difficult to imagine the changes that the next inheritor will bring to this bookshop. Mr Chandra has retained its old-world charm of low-hanging fans, high ceiling, rosewood shelves and rickety wooden stairs. “Against the pressure to make the layout what is called sleeker and shinier, I have preserved the old look with zeal,” he says.

Of course, he can’t do much about the changing profile of customers. They have grown younger. Mostly college students on romantic dates, they commute by the Metro, get off at Rajiv Chowk (the Metro stop for Connaught Place), pick up a coffee or a patty and walk into the bookshop. “Sometimes I find chewing gum stuck on the floor. It never happened before.”

Similar is the case with Connaught Place. “The quality of people coming here has gone down,” Mr Chandra says. “Look… look at that hinjra,” he says, pointing to a eunuch harassing a shopper just outside his shop window. “Then there are beggars who are so aggressive.”

However, a bigger threat could be the advent of e-books. Once he would sell five sets of Encyclopaedia Britannica, costing Rs 45,000 each, every year, but now thanks to the Internet, he stocks none. “The other day, I was reading a newspaper article on Google’s e-library, then there is Kindle,” says Chandra referring to the electronic book device. “But while the Internet will remain a source of information, nothing will replace the printed word.”

Lifting a phone directory (which itself is becoming extinct), the booksellers says, “The ability to browse, handle and smell the book is possible only in a brick-and-mortar bookstore.”

The collection in the New Book Depot is entirely made up of Mr Chandra’s personal choice. It makes for a high-brow browsing. Nietzsche, Rabelais, John Ruskin, Li Po, John Updike, Saul Bellow, Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin and Jean-Paul Sartre. For balance, there are all the Ian Flemings.

“We have only four real bookshops in Delhi,” Mr Chandra says. “Bahrisons Booksellers in Khan Market, The Book Shop in Jor Bagh, Fact & Fiction in Basant Lok and mine.” To retain the sanctity of the New Book Depot, he is considering drafting a set of rules for customers. “It will be something like the Ten Commandments,” he says. “No phone chat, no coffee, no bags, no eating…” Just then, Mr Chandra’s son interrupts him from the ground floor. “Dad, do we have Spanish language authors?” The father shoots back, “Yes, Garcia Marquez, Isabel Allende, Pablo Neruda, Mario Vargas Llosa.”

[This is the ninth portrait of the Mission Delhi project]

Proud of his collection

Mission Delhi – Rakesh Chandra, Connaught Place

Busy dusting

Mission Delhi – Rakesh Chandra, Connaught Place

Son and father

Mission Delhi – Rakesh Chandra, Connaught Place

Upstairs (Mr Chandra's profile is shielding off his father's portrait)

Mission Delhi – Rakesh Chandra, Connaught Place

Assisting a customer

Mission Delhi – Rakesh Chandra, Connaught Place

The son, too, is assisting a customer

Mission Delhi – Rakesh Chandra, Connaught Place

Mr Chandra's fiefdom

Mission Delhi – Rakesh Chandra, Connaught Place

Take care, Mr Chandra

Mission Delhi – Rakesh Chandra, Connaught Place

Thursday, January 28, 2010

City Landmark - Khan-i-Khana's Tomb, Nizamuddin East

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City Landmark - Khan-i-Khana's Tomb, Nizamuddin East

Scarred with beauty.

[Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi]

A stone-paved lane hedged with marigold flowers leads to one of Delhi’s strangest monuments. The 16th century tomb of a Mughal noble, Abdul Rahim Khan-i-Khana, is both ugly and beautiful. Its exterior stonework is stripped off. The plaster on its inside walls is chipped. Its niches are cobwebbed. The ceilings are scrawled with romantic messages. But before you notice the flaws, the weathered dome, as well as the chhatris and the arches take you in. The underground tomb is inaccessible but the sarcophagus in the upper chamber is bare, quiet, dark and windy.

Bordered by the tony Nizamuddin East bungalows on one side and the noisy Mathura Road on the other, the large garden around the ticketed tomb is like a city getaway. It is dotted with bottle palm, ashoka, mango and sangwan trees. A giant neem leans onto the tomb itself. In the mornings, the neighbourhood’s health-conscious gentry treat the complex like their local Lodhi Garden. They troop in with their passes for exercises and games. In other times, the place remains forsaken, save a few sightseers, stray dogs and restless squirrels continually racing on the grass, climbing the trees and playing catch-me-if-you-can with one another.

Besides being Akbar’s prime minister, Mr Khan-i-Khana translated Mughal emperor Babar’s memoirs from Chaghatai to Persian. He wrote two books on astrology and had a good command over Sanskrit. He also composed poetry. Once, Hindi poet Tulsidas wrote a verse on him.

This ruin was built for Mr Khan-i-Khana’s wife and, as it happened, he too was interred here. During the last years of the Mughal rule, the tomb and the dome had their marbles stripped off and put on the tomb of Safdarjang, another noble. The scarred look works well for those who find beauty in melancholy.

Beware There are no railings on the platform Ticket Rs 5 Time Sunrise to sunset Where Nizamuddin East, next to the entrance

Waiting for the date

City Landmark - Khan-i-Khana's Tomb, Nizamuddin East

The whole look

City Landmark - Khan-i-Khana's Tomb, Nizamuddin East

Morning walkers

Morning Walk

Careful, brother

City Landmark - Khan-i-Khana's Tomb, Nizamuddin East

Family-friendly destination

City Landmark - Khan-i-Khana's Tomb, Nizamuddin East

Playing with history

Playing with History

Alone together

City Landmark - Khan-i-Khana's Tomb, Nizamuddin East

Domestic tourists

City Landmark - Khan-i-Khana's Tomb, Nizamuddin East

Domestic tourists

Yaari Dosti

It's the time

City Landmark - Khan-i-Khana's Tomb, Nizamuddin East

Up the stairs

City Landmark - Khan-i-Khana's Tomb, Nizamuddin East

The sacrophagus chamber

City Landmark - Khan-i-Khana's Tomb, Nizamuddin East

Scarred beauty

City Landmark - Khan-i-Khana's Tomb, Nizamuddin East

Careful, brothers

City Landmark - Khan-i-Khana's Tomb, Nizamuddin East

Quite a sight

Quite a Beauty

See you

City Landmark - Khan-i-Khana's Tomb, Nizamuddin East

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Special Report – The Delhi Walla in Jaipur

The Delhi walla's pretension in writing makes me want to lodge a bullet in his balls - Blogger Nimpipi, the woodchuck chucks
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Jaipur Literature Festival

Notes from the fifth Jaipur Literature Festival.

[Text and pictures by Mayank Austen Soofi]

The Delhi Walla attended the fifth Jaipur Literature Festival, 2010. The five days were sunny and intense. There were singers, actors, ambassadors, college students, tourists, hippies, aspiring writers, book lovers, socialites, politicians, free-loaders, journalists, and more than 200 authors and speakers such as Asma Jahangir, Claire Tomalin, Wole Soyinka, Romesh Gunesekera, Hanif Qureshi, Gulzar, Roberto Calasso, Roddy Doyle, Vikram Chandra, Ashok Vajpeyi, Niall Ferguson, Saleema Hashmi, Anne Applebaum, Ali Sethi, Tenzing Tsundue, Amit Choudhury, William Dalrymple, Sadia Shepherd, Ayaan Hirsi Ali, Geoff Dyer, Javed Akhtar, Tina Brown, Michael Frayn, Shobhaa De, Krishna Sobti, Krishna Baldev Vaid, Steve Coll, Stephen Frears, Chetan Bhagat, Lawrence Wright, Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuk, Alexander McCall Smith, Raghu Rai, Girish Karnad, Tony Wheeler, Prasoon Joshi and many many more.

In festivals such as this one, it is hard to make a real conversation with any one person. The inability to interact with every interesting visitor was frustrating. But there were compensations. Free wine. Good food. Lot of sex. Sucking up to celebrities you could have only dreamed of meeting. Making a three-dimensional measure of the people you regularly buy from Khan Market bookstores. And finding out which author is a nice person, and which one is... well, a bastard.

Here are the links to what The Delhi Walla saw in Jaipur:

Jaipur Diary – The Final Fifth Day

Jaipur Diary – The Engaging Fourth Day

Jaipur Diary – The Disappointing Third Day

Jaipur Diary – The Intense Second Day

Jaipur Diary – The Spectacular First Day

Jaipur Diary – The Early Birds

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Jaipur Literature Festival

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Sunny 'n' Sexy

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Jaipur Literature Festival

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Jaipur Literature Festival

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Jaipur Literature Festival

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Jaipur Literature Festival

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Jaipur Literature Festival

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Jaipur Literature Festival

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Jaipur Literature Festival

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Jaipur Literature Festival

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Jaipur Literature Festival

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Jaipur Literature Festival

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Jaipur Literature Festival

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Jaipur Literature Festival

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Portrait

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Jaipur Literature Festival

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

All Ears

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Jaipur Literature Festival

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Jaipur Literature Festival

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Two Scotsmen

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Filing Stories?

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Band of Brothers

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Roberto Calasso and the Girlfriend

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Jaipur Literature Festival

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Jaipur Literature Festival

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Anne Applebaum

Sense of the place, Jaipur Literature Festival

Jaipur Literature Festival

I, me notepad, my camera (picture by Priya Dhawan)

The Delhi Walla in the Jaipur Literature Festival